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chanel ss25 haute couture | a nouvelle époque

In the realm of haute couture, Chanel undoubtedly emerges as a paragon of the craft. Being the oldest haute couture house still in operation – and marking 110 years since Gabrielle Chanel opened its doors – it seems only fitting to say that Chanel and couture are inextricably intertwined.

Back in the familiar setting of the Grand Palais des Champs-Élysées in Paris, the French fashion house’s Spring-Summer 2025 Haute Couture show – which boasted a star-studded front row, including fashion’s it-girl of the moment Kylie Jenner, Pamela Anderson, Lily-Rose Depp, and Dua Lipa – glittered under the Beaux-Arts architecture and glass vaulted ceilings. While the set design was kept minimal, it was intentional, with the runway being formed of two C-shaped ramps that resembled an infinity sign from above. 

The Maison’s signature tweed suits were the focal point of the collection but somehow felt brand-new. A cream boxy jacket with slightly puffed sleeves and pleated skirt pairing featured a subtle multi-coloured pastel braiding on the hems while a melt-in-your-mouth butter yellow set adorned with a pale pink tulle trim brought Gabrielle Chanel’s love of colour to the forefront. Not to mention the sequin woven tweed dresses that sparkled under the runway lighting.

 

In contrast to the sturdier looks, diaphanous capes, long sleeve dresses, and underskirts floated ethereally, as the silk crêpe trickled down the body. Printed with colours that were reminiscent of a watercolour painting, the looks supplied the collection with a delicacy not often identified with Chanel. Evening gowns with fitted sequin-embellished bodices were complimented by ruffles as far as the eye could see.  

Skinny black belts with dainty gold oval buckles cinched not only drop-waist pleated mini skirts but also a pleated plastron double satin shirt dress and a feather-trimmed and tulle-ruffled slip-dress. Thick black pussy bows tied at the neck of double satin shirts, voluminous capes, and floor-length tweed jackets – a mainstay of Chanel – created a decadent contrast between lighter colours. That motif was ever-present, all the way down to models’ toes, with heeled and flat strappy shoes with the brand’s classic black toe on full display. 

Of course, it’s not haute couture without the Chanel bride, who wore a voluminous semi-sheer high-low dress under an ornamented tweed jacket tied at the neck with a white pussy bow. A white floral headpiece, veil, and all-white shoes completed the look.

Reminiscing on its illustrious history, and alluding ever-so-elegantly to Gabrielle Chanel, the house designed an indelible collection that carries fashion into a nouvelle époque of couture.

Discover the collection here

photography. Chanel
words. Amber Louise