
Robin Galiegue.
Nearly a year into his tenure at Balenciaga, Pierpaolo Piccioli is becoming increasingly interesting. Spring 2027, titled ’Unsized,’ is his most considered collection for the house yet: a rethinking of what clothing can be when it stops insisting on a fixed relationship with the body beneath it.
The concept reiterates a central Balenciaga edict, the integrity of the human body as the base for creation, and takes it somewhere new. Garments are drawn around the body and adjusted through ribbons of cloth, gestures borrowed from traditional couture construction, so that fit becomes something negotiated rather than assigned.
The clothes themselves are extraordinary in their lightness. Featherweight techno taffeta, a new house signature made from recycled materials, runs through the entire wardrobe alongside double cashmere, kid mohair, poplin and denim in various weights and washes. Entire ensembles weigh less than a kilogram. The effect is what Piccioli calls a liberation of form: clothes that respond to how a body moves through the day instead of imposing a shape upon it.

Robin Galiegue.

Robin Galiegue.
Piccioli has been compiling Cristóbal Balenciaga’s archive into slim grey volumes, shelved like an encyclopaedia set, and his study of the founder shows. The balloon, the cocoon, the drape reappear not as predictable archival references but as living ideas, reengineered for the way people actually dress today. The category-blurring is where the collection becomes most fun. Shirts arrive with the trains of grand evening gowns; evening gowns carry themselves with the attitude of t-shirts. Jeans are worn beneath plissé jersey eveningwear; TechWear sits alongside tailoring, while draped silk jersey meets different washes and weights of denim across day and evening.
The accessories push the same thinking further. The Rodeo is reconsidered in fine nappa leather lined with techno taffeta, softening its silhouette so it moves with the body rather than against it. Le City Core arrives in natural smooth calf with rounded or braided handles and the iconographic City leather plaque and metal studs, alongside iterations in soft washed-effect lambskin with a muted brass chain-strap, both considerably more subtle in register than their predecessors.

Robin Galiegue.

Robin Galiegue.
Shoes follow suit: the Sunset line, built around an inner glove structure in hyper-soft suede and toile canvas, wraps the foot like a second skin, while the Core sneaker is engineered to follow the curve of the foot in mesh and rubber. The Aviator boot, in fine leather with zip detailing, and the expanded Bloom pump in ballerina and sling-back form complete a footwear range that moves between softness and structure without contradiction.
Jewellery has been reconsidered as function as much as decoration. The Bow line draws directly from Cristóbal’s penultimate haute couture collection of Autumn/Winter 1967, reinterpreted in crystal. The Echo line gathers Balenciaga talismans and charms into necklaces as keepsakes. Le City hardware, the studs and plaques that have defined the bag for decades, becomes a line of jewellery and jewel-accessory hybrids.
The lookbook, photographed by Robin Galiegue on the threshold of Balenciaga’s historic home at 10 avenue George V, captures exactly the tension the collection lives in: couture and street not collapsed into one another, but in more honest, more considered conversation than they have been in some time.

Robin Galiegue.
Discover the Spring 2027 collection here.
photography. courtesy of Robin Galiegue for Balenciaga
words. Gennaro Costanzo