Tradition and innovation often come face to face in the world of menswear. In this delicate art of balancing, few designers have mastered bringing both heritage and modernity together as seamlessly as Todd Snyder. With a sophisticated approach to American style, Snyder has long been drawn to iconic brands with rich histories. Through the Woolrich Black Label, the legendary outdoor brand with nearly two centuries of heritage, Todd Snyder is demonstrating actively how understanding the past is the key to the future.
In this exclusive interview with Schön! Magazine, Snyder delves into his creative journey with Woolrich, offering insights into the inspiration behind his latest collection, his deep respect for craftsmanship, and his vision for the future of the brand. From reimagining archival classics to merging technical innovation with luxury aesthetics, Snyder shares how he navigates the delicate dance of honouring the past, all the while continuing to forge a new path.
How did your creative journey with Woolrich begin?
I have always had the deepest admiration for American heritage brands and consistently seek to work with the best. Undoubtedly, the rich history of Woolrich played a pivotal role, being one of the longest-standing brands with an extensive archive to draw inspiration from. When I started digging, I realized that this brand has been around for 194 years, which is incredible. I’ve worked with brands that have about a hundred years of history, but I had never dealt with a brand with such a vast heritage. The opportunity to shape its future was truly exciting.
With 194 years of heritage under the belt, how do you approach designing for Woolrich? Could you walk us through your creative process?
It is very important for me to pay tribute to the past, as it is for Woolrich’s rich heritage as the Original American Outdoor brand, but also push forward. This means starting from scratch, rediscovering the classicism of the designs and the ultra-modern attention to details that harks back to the archives of a brand that has played a role in shaping the iconography of American outdoor wear.
My goal has been to merge Woolrich’s storied heritage with a modern twist, creating something that feels both familiar and brand new. I have a deep respect for the brand’s rich history, which means rediscovering the classicism of the designs and the ultra-modern attention to detail that harks back to the archives of a brand that has played a role in shaping the iconography of American outdoor wear.
How do you navigate the balance between innovation and reinvention? Do you often delve into the archives for inspiration?
The starting point is the archive, but also a search for modernity that balanced history and tradition with more contemporary needs. Woolrich is revered worldwide for its iconic contributions to the menswear canon —the Buffalo Check Shirt and Admiral Richard E. Byrd’s Arctic Parka. The challenge is to bring that same authenticity to warm-weather gear, reimagining Woolrich’s storied heritage, traditionally rooted in woollens and outerwear, for the warmer seasons.
What was the driving inspiration behind the SS25 collection?
I drew inspiration from the lush forests, wild rivers, and rugged coastlines of Oregon, imagining a Spring vision for Woolrich that celebrates national parks, wide-open spaces, and nature’s beauty. Nature takes center stage in a collection that finds inspiration in the timeless beauty of the natural world, bringing together Woolrich’s rich heritage as a storied American brand with a contemporary and timeless aesthetic.
This SS25 collection embodies the evolving intersection of outdoor gear and luxury lifestyle. Call it ‘WanderLuxe’ or ‘Rugged Luxury’. Just as gym clothes evolved into athleisure, we’re seeing a shift in menswear where sophisticated, stylish individuals are wearing technical wilderness clothing for both office and dinner outings. This collection is designed to excel both in the field and in urban settings.
The SS25 collection introduces a distinct character—the explorer. Who is this figure in your mind, and who do you envision wearing Woolrich?
The Woolrich Black Label collection is designed to meet the high technical standards of serious outdoorsmen while being chic enough for city dwellers who mix field clothing into their unique personal style. Whether you’re a serious outdoor enthusiast or fashion lover, you’ll connect with this collection.
I also drew inspiration from bike couriers, who often lift one leg of their pants above the ankle to avoid staining from the bike chain. What started as a practical solution was adopted by street style, evolving into a sophisticated and personalized fashion statement. It’s a perfect example of how functional ideas can be reinterpreted into something uniquely stylish.
Is there a standout look from the SS25 Woolrich Black Label collection that resonates with you the most?
For me Must-have look of the season includes standout items such as rainwear with topographic prints together with matchy shorts, a white 3-layer lunar jacket that combines style and functionality, and a technical jacquard parka perfect for any adventure. But also the sleek and sophisticated monochromatic belted coverall, ideal for making a modern statement.
When it comes to textiles and mills, what are the key priorities guiding your work with Woolrich?
I’ve put a lot of effort into the materials, striving to enhance them. I delved into Woolrich’s archives, rich with history, to draw inspiration and make significant changes. For instance, I’ve opted for cashmere from Bacci and other particularly unique fabrics. Naturally, they are all Italian fabrics, and we’ve used many high-performance technical fabrics, such as glossy nylon for outerwear and extremely soft technical fleece and seam-sealed foul-weather gear made from Olmetex’s Ripstop nylon.
How do you infuse innovation into the technical aspects of Woolrich’s design legacy?
When you can take something iconic, something so deeply rooted in our minds and turn it on its head, that’s when it gets super interesting. That’s what I aim to achieve with Woolrich Black Label – to take something familiar and turn it into a product that feels luxurious and brand new. The aim is to propel the brand into the future, infusing it with a modern sensibility by exploring new technologies, innovative fabrics, and recycled materials. All the while, not forgetting the notion of luxury conveyed through the incorporation of precious materials. My goal is to deliver the best of Woolrich’s DNA in a way that nobody thought possible.
What is the significance of Italy in your work? How do you connect Woolrich to Italian craftsmanship and culture?
As long as I’ve loved fashion, I’ve loved tailoring. When I was lucky enough to start spending time in Italy, I became enamoured with the extraordinary quality of Italian fabrics and the craftsmanship that you can only find in Italy. This love and respect for the Italian technique and culture intersected with the rich utilitarianism and heritage of Woolrich and its place in American culture is such a powerful starting point for Woolrich Black Label!
Looking ahead, what is your vision for the future of Woolrich?
My hope is to extend Woolrich’s legacy well into the future, to merge the past and present, in the hope of redefining the fundamental elements of style with an emphasis on heritage, quality, and craftsmanship. I have a deep respect for the brand’s rich history as the Original American Outdoor brand, and I aim to honour that while also pushing it forward into the future. That’s why I wanted to create garments that stand the test of time while remaining contemporary. I’ve blended authentic workwear with a clean and sophisticated style, reflecting an evolution towards an aesthetic that merges tailoring with the outdoor spirit.
Discover the Woolrich Black Label collection by Todd Snyder at woolrich.com.
interview. Patrick Clark
