timelessness | milan fashion week men’s ss24 presentations roundup

image. Brioni

Timelessness became the subject of every Milan Fashion Week (MFW) men’s spring/summer 2024 collection with classic silhouettes, breezy summer colour palettes, and revival designs dominating brand presentations. Amidst five days—June 16 to 20—an array of Italian brands and designers showcased menswear (and some womenswear) collections that embraced fashion’s ever-growing longing for ageless luxury. Presentations from Paul & Shark, Woolrich, MCM, Santoni, Tod’s, Ten C, Brioni, Brunello Cucinelli, CanaliBoglioli, Aspesi, and Umit Benan left a lasting impression, leaving us longing for SS24.

Presenting their SS24 menswear capsule collection, ‘Riviera’, at their flagship store in Milan, Paul & Shark transformed their space into an Italian beach, the outside boasting a pebbled beach with blue and white striped sunbeds and beach umbrellas. The brand, known for its vintage-chic style and timeless silhouettes, took inspiration from the Dolce Vita and Italian summer dreams. A Mediterranean colour palette of soft blues and sorbet hues combined with quick-drying swim shorts, loose-fitting linen shirts, and silk polo shirts evokes the feeling of an endless summer.

Providing high-performance designs with urban and outdoor activities in mind is what Woolrich does best. Presenting their SS24 men’s and womenswear collection at MFW, they celebrate their American culture and lifestyle through a variety of innovative pieces. Within three main themes—City Climbers, Americana Sailing, and Weekender—Woolrich pushes the boundaries of outerwear, exploring technical fabrics PERTEX and GORE-TEX. Adding to the American-inspired collection were a variety of plaid shirts and a summery colour palette of lemon and mustard yellow, navy blue, salmon pink, and purple. 

Revisiting their heritage for their SS24 collection titled ‘Made for Movement’, MCM has re-imagined their classic accessories, making them fit for the modern traveller. Founded as an alternative to French luxury, the German brand designed pieces for luxurious jet-setters and is revisiting those accessories with urban sportswear and wrinkle-free fabrics. Their classic Visetos pattern and signature cognac colourway have been splashed onto their Diamant Line, Visetos Travel Line, and more. Wanting to serve their customers further, they’ve launched a new perfume with Inner Parfums, allowing MCM to be anywhere with anyone. 

Traditional craftsmanship paired with natural landscapes is the foundation of Santoni’s newest SS24 men’s collection. Described as ‘a journey into the Marche region,’ classic shoe designs—special lace-ups, square-toed moccasins, and signature loafers—receive a new look with three distinct prints, Cantalupo, Vela, and Centofinestre, all depicting different landscapes. Craftsmanship has always been a large part of the brand’s ethos, with in-lays, contrast stitching, and refined weaves building the foundation of the collection. The soft spring colour palette of blue, green, brown, and beige travel from the more formal shoe designs to sneakers, bags, and key chains.

Tod’s revealed classic silhouettes and casual tailoring in a traditional Italian garden setting at their SS24 menswear presentation held at Villa Necchi. Working with an earthy colour palette, creative director Walter Chiapponi designed structured cotton jackets, nylon and fabric bombers, and anorak windbreakers with timelessness in mind. Accompanying the clothing was a new version of the iconic Riviera Slip-ons, traditional Bubble Gomminos, moccasins, and even sneakers. The signature Di Bag even found its way into the menswear collection.

Ten C’s OJJ – Original Japanese Jersey makes up a large percentage of their new menswear collection. The brand, specialising in no-logo luxury outerwear, drew inspiration from the Arcari quarry on the Berici Hills of Vicenza, where they had shot a previous campaign. Designer Alessandro Pungetti revitalised the OJJ fabric by treating it in a powder-effect dye, making the fabric resemble the limestone quarry with its grainy look and subdued colours. Military-inspired clothing and backpacks appeared alongside returning styles of anoraks, sweatshirts, trousers and jerseys. 

Lightness took over Brioni’s SS24 men’s presentation. Looking at things from a new perspective was the starting point, prompting an elevated everyday colour palette of sand, rust, blue, and green—a nod to the view of a metropolitan city from above. Weightless and relaxed fits took form in the leisure and sportswear lines with blazers, field jackets, trench coats, shirts, and polos. Wools, linens, silks, and twills added elegance to the more casual silhouettes. However, in the evening wear, that same lightness appeared in the form of muted shine on silk shawl-lapel dinner jackets. A selection of womenswear evolved from the men’s collection, consisting of blazers, trousers, shirts, and dresses tailored to the female frame.

In their quest for elegance, Brunello Cucinelli presented a spring/summer menswear collection fit for every man’s personality. With paisley patterns, details inspired by the French Riviera, and patterned T-shirts, the brand combined natural textures and classic tailoring with a contemporary twist. Fresh pink, raspberry, turquoise, and mauve worked wonderfully against enduring neutrals. Classic silhouettes with exquisite tailoring take form in relaxed trousers, blazers, and flowy trench coats, while sporty and comfortable pieces can be found in the leisure line.

Canali’s latest collection, titled ‘Mediterranean Craft’, promotes high-quality tailoring. The Italian-based and produced brand presented relaxed fits in wool, linen, terry, Nappa leather, and silk fabrics alongside a breezy colour palette. Even evening wear was treated to a fresh colour palette of pastel blue and lavender. Vichy checks and flower motifs appeared throughout the collection, adding texture to the garments. Canali’s ‘Double’ part of the collection showed a series of handmade jackets, trousers, reversible coats, and blousons that were unlined, seamless, and had invisible stitching.

Celebrating its 50th anniversary, Boglioli introduces a limited and numbered edition of its iconic K-Jacket. Made with high-quality cashmere fibres and donning a chromatic effect, the jacket represents modern sartorial luxury and encompasses the brand’s innovation and tradition. Limited to 50 pieces, the K-Jacket has a dedicated black label and green herringbone pattern, available at flagship stores in Milan and New York and online in September. Their spring/summer men’s 2024 collection promotes relaxed yet sophisticated styles with classic Italian elegance, similar to the K-Jacket. Casual suiting and light cotton, wool, Vichy, and linen combined with Boglioli’s construction and technique add to the presentation.

Aspesi’s SS24 men and womenswear collection presented timeless silhouettes made fresh with seasonal prints. Californian, Hawaiian, and Cuban-inspired floral prints found their way onto slouchy jackets, trousers, and button-up shirts. A neutral colour palette ran through the collection, with black, white, navy, and khaki being the focus. Military-inspired details add a sporty element to field jackets, cargo pants, and workwear-style outfits. High-quality cotton, poplin, linen, and silk pieces boast a classic style that embraces individuality, self-expression, and diversity.

Summer has always been at the heart of Umit Benan. Their B+ SS24 men’s and womenswear collection was inspired by the beaches of 50s Cuba and 60s Acapulco seen through a filtered Slim Aarons lens. Expert tailoring, casual suiting, and crisp lines made from blends of linen, silk, and cashmere create light and airy pieces fit for the season. A rich colour palette of terracotta tan, lemonade pink, ultramarine blue, and cadet grey add to the luxurious summer atmosphere.

Each presentation was authentic to the brands and showcased classic contemporary styles that would be a significant addition to any wardrobe.

images. Paul & Shark, Woolrich, MCM, Santoni, Tod’s, Ten C, Brioni, Brunello Cucinelli, CanaliBoglioli, Aspesi, + Umit Benan
words. Amber Louise

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