celine ss26 | michael rider’s return

If you walked into the Celine Spring 2026 show expecting a safe, Parisian parade of beige trench coats and demure silk blouses, you probably left with your expectations in tatters — and a sudden urge to hunt down a red leather bomber jacket. Michael Rider’s first full season at the house was a love letter to the misfits, the magpies, and anyone who’s ever wanted to wear their attitude on their sleeve (or, in one case, their entire body).

Staged at Celine’s historic headquarters at 16 rue Vivienne, the show marked a full-circle moment for the new creative director. “Coming back to Celine, and to Paris… has been incredibly emotional,” Rider wrote in his show letter. “And a complete joy.” That emotion filtered into a collection that riffed on the house’s established codes: sharp tailoring, sportswear ease, and a certain Parisian insouciance, while injecting a collegiate, preppy spirit drawn from Rider’s years at Ralph Lauren and his own outsider’s perspective on French style. Rider referenced the house’s history at every turn — from Michael Kors’s luxe minimalism to Phoebe Philo’s cultish cool, and Hedi Slimane’s bourgeois street edge. 

Across 72 looks for men and women, silhouettes played with proportion and personality: oversized blazers with warped waists, pleated trousers that hugged the thigh then flared out dramatically, and outerwear that swung between crisp trenches and cropped leathers. One standout: a fire-engine red bomber jacket so glossy it reflected flashbulbs like a lacquered apple. Shoulders were sculpted and slightly rounded, sleeves ballooned with cartoonish volume, yet somehow it all felt chic. Cobalt blue cuffs and collar added an athletic snap, while a green-and-blue scarf knotted at the neck gave it a graphic twist. Below the waist: slouchy camel trousers puddled over clean white sneakers.

Another scene-stealer? A full-body dress covered entirely in Celine tags. Not printed or embroidered, but real tags, stitched edge to edge, clinking and fluttering with each step. It was hypnotic, sculptural, and surprisingly elegant: a witty, self-aware nod to branding that turned the idea of the “label” inside out.

Accessories and styling were front and centre: silk scarves (even the show invite was a scarf), chunky gold chains, and a revival of the Phantom It-bag, all layered and stacked for maximum impact. Rider’s Celine is playful and eclectic, with logo belts, varsity stripes, and even menswear leggings tucked into boxing boots. Nostalgia flickered throughout, but it was never overwhelming. Instead, Rider’s approach was about endurance and attitude: clothes designed to live on, to gather memories, to be worn and re-worn, always with a touch of irreverence and a lot of soul.

“I’ve always loved the idea of clothing that lives on, that becomes a part of the wearer’s life,” he wrote in his show letter, and you could see it in the easy swagger of the models, the way a scarf was tossed or a jacket shrugged on.

Celine Spring 2026 wasn’t about rewriting the rules. It was about tossing them in the air, watching them flutter down like so many tags, and then picking out the ones that felt right for right now. And if you left the show wanting to wrap yourself in red leather or cover yourself in labels, well, maybe that was the point.

Discover the collection here.

photography. Courtesy of Celine
words. Gennaro Costanzo