susan fang aw25 | air memory

Julian Klausner’s debut collection for Dries Van Noten was never going to be a quiet affair. Staged at the Palais Garnier, the collection played with that idea of transformation, like a performer grabbing whatever’s at hand — shoelaces, velvet scraps, a perfectly rumpled scarf — and turning it into something grand. Klausner drew from his earliest memories of fashion, rummaging through his family’s costume box.

Tailoring had a dramatic flair, with oversized collars, sweeping cuffs, and linings that stepped out from the shadows to become garments of their own. Corset belts cinched voluminous skirts, while puffed sleeves and sculpted silhouettes gave a touch of old-school glamour — but with an offbeat twist. There was something of a dancer’s poise in the stirrup pants and knit ensembles, but also a rebellious streak in the way layers clashed and collided.

Beaded mesh shimmered like stage lights, polka dots scattered playfully across silk, and lush opera-house fabrics — velvet, jacquards, curtain tassels — were thrown into the mix. The exquisite colour palette balanced deep bottle greens and violets with the soft romance of ballet blush. Accessories ran with the theatrical spirit: shoelaces became earrings, heels came chunky and sculptural, and everything felt like it had been tied, draped, or fastened in the moment, just before stepping into the spotlight.

Klausner’s debut felt like stepping backstage at the Palais Garnier: there was history, drama, and personal expression in particular, which elevated the collection to a whole new level.

Discover the collection here.

photography. Dries Van Noten 
words. Gennaro Costanzo

For Andreas Kronthaler, the number 19 symbolises energy, expansion, and fresh starts — fitting for a season where he merges Vivienne Westwood’s mainline with his own for the first time. And what better way to embrace change than by shaking things up? This collection is a love letter to London — the city he’s called home for over three decades — where Baroque drama meets punk defiance, wrapped up in rich textiles and irreverent tailoring.  

Suits, a Westwood signature, take centre stage, reimagined with asymmetrical skirts, extravagant trench coats, and oversized blazers. Harris Tweed, Scottish tartan, and Yorkshire wool bring history into the mix, proving that tradition and rebellion can go hand in hand. “There’s nothing sexier than a suit,” Kronthaler says, and here, tailoring is both statement and subversion — sharp yet undone, formal yet fearless. Menswear makes its return, adding to the collection’s bold, unfiltered attitude.  

There’s a theatricality to it all — furry heels, gilded birdcage handbags, and a runway that felt like a stage for the city’s most eccentric characters. A touch of nostalgia runs through the collection, recalling the ‘90s when Red Label and Gold Label shared the spotlight. 

Textures and craftsmanship shine, with silk masquerading as tweed, delicate chiffon reimagined as denim, and sumptuous velvets adding depth. Layering is key — blazers over skirts, tunics over trousers — creating silhouettes that feel effortless yet meticulously constructed. Accessories lean into excess, with oversized jewellery, dramatic ruffles, and sculptural shoes. Funnily, even skis make an appearance, adding to the collection’s playful, rebellious edge. 

It’s a collection that embraces heritage while rewriting the rules — bold, theatrical, and unapologetically Westwood. With its mix of precision tailoring, offbeat glamour, and a rebellious streak, it captures the essence of London: always evolving, never dull.

Discover the collection here.

photography. Vivienne Westwood
words. Gennaro Costanzo

Under the soaring glass roof of the Grand Palais, Chanel’s Autumn/Winter 2025/26 Ready-to-Wear collection unfolds like a theatre of dreamlike illusions. With scenographer Willo Perron’s installation — black ribbons twisting and turning through the space — the collection plays with size, length, and proportion, reinterpreting classic House codes with a fresh perspective. 

Matthieu Blazy has quietly reshaped the French heritage house, balancing tradition with fresh ideas. His knack for proportion and texture was on full display, making classic Chanel codes feel effortlessly modern. Even a pigeon seemed to approve, confidently strutting across the runway as if it had been cast for the show.

This season, silhouettes defy expectations. A cropped tweed jacket in blue, white, and pink is paired with exaggeratedly long trousers, while a voluminous poplin shirt cascades to ankle length. A black tweed jacket, edged with braid, extends into a long coat-dress adorned with jewelled buttons, and a cape transforms into jacket cuffs. Bows, ribbons, pearls, and camellias — some of Chanel’s most enduring signatures — appear in unexpected ways. Bows bloom across collars and cuffs, tumble down the length of a black down jacket, and even form sculptural cut-outs on dresses and knits. 

Accessories continue the theme of trompe l’oeil: heels fashioned from single pearls, a cross-body bag mimicking an oversized pearl necklace, and rhinestone jewellery that revels in maximalism. Among the standout accessories were pearl-encrusted handbags — some structured and refined, others playful and oversized, shimmering under the runway lights.

Layering takes centre stage, offering new ways to build a look. A grenadine tweed trio — micro-jacket, wrap skirt, and flared trousers — is lined with flashes of bright red silk. Another ensemble in rich bronze layers a tunic and trousers beneath a buttoned-over skirt, while a sleeveless blouson gilet meets a slit ivory skirt topped with a miniskirt. Transparency plays its part too, with sheer black or white tulle capes floating over sharp tweed tailoring, and blouses layering over structured jackets, creating fluid, shifting silhouettes.

Texture and fabrication bring an added dimension to the illusion. Chiffon mimics denim, silk takes on the look of tweed, and a hooded black organza parka is adorned with bows. Sock-ankle boots and satin bouillonné details enhance the sense of delicacy, while ruff collars resembling floral corollas, lace-trimmed trench coats, and 3D petal embellishments add a poetic finish.

Chanel’s latest offering flirts with fantasy while remaining grounded in the House’s unmistakable DNA. It’s a world where classic codes are revisited, proportions are reimagined, and illusions become reality.

Discover the collection here.

photography. Chanel
words. Gennaro Costanzo