New Year, New Fashion. As fashion tradition dictates, the start of the new year brings forth the Autumn Winter 2019 menswear collections and first up, it was LFWM‘s turn. To make sure you get the best from the AW19 collections, Schön! and photographer Jordan Eisbjerg take you backstage at some of the most buzz-worthy shows from the past weekend.
The first show in our backstage roundup comes from Chinese designer Xander Zhou. As a self-titled humanoidwear designer, Zhou looked to the future to envision his latest collection. Taking inspiration from genetic modification and artificial intelligence, Zhou’s designs were both maximalist and minimalist, futurist yet contemporary and, in all, exquisite.
As expected, British designer Bobby Abley took to pop culture once again for inspiration. This time, it was the Japanese global phenomenon known as Pokémon what took over Abley’s designs. His trademark graphic elements were still present in the form of playful dungarees and an ample selection of co-ords with Pokémon icons like Pikachu, Charmander and Squirtle all making an appearance in patterns. Of course, Abley also looked to Xtina’s Dirrty era for inspiration.
London-based Cottweiler, with designers Ben Cottrell and Matthew Dainty at the helm, turned green for 2019 (quite literally). With a palette ranging from neon to camo, Cottrell and Dainty executed a much needed cheeky collection that left little to the imagination, as it should. The duo referenced gay cruising abundantly throughout the pieces, with various revealing yet quasi-demure zipper placements. This collection was another step forward in the brand’s now trademarked clean urbanism, remaining faithful yet playfully reinventing its hyper-utilitarian, genderless roots.
Edward Crutchley‘s AW19 collection was new, yet somehow it felt old — in the best way possible. The construction of the clothes, the streamlined silhouettes and the prevalently monochrome colour palette all screamed classic, yet, in essence, the collection was still modern. The designer himself dubbed this collection as “anti-sportswear” and that label enough shall suffice to describe the pieces. All glam, all craft, all noir.
In its sophomore show at LFWM, James Long’s Iceberg was everything Edward Crutchley wasn’t: a colourful streetwear extravaganza that took over The Truman Brewery by storm — a snow one to be precise. Dully inspired by the slopes, Long’s designs took their roots from the brand’s knit sportswear roots, reinterpreting skiing traditional garbs, whilst adding a splash of quintessentially British aesthetic, a generous infusion of youth culture and a sheer nod to punk.
Last but not least, Liam Hodges defined the “modern-day cyborg” with his new collection. The British designer presented the streetwear collection: rife with tie-dye, acid wash, graphic slogans and angsty Internet existentialism. Hodges‘ own British tradition was present in some of the garments’ structures and patterns, though sprinkled through in the many contemporary asymmetric looks. Hodges’ collection felt fresh, and wearable and even included a small collaboration with streetwear iconic brand Ellesse.
Find out more information about London Fashion Week Men’s here.
photography. Jordan Eisbjerg
words. Sara Delgado
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