‘Eterno,’ Willy Chavarria’s Autumn/Winter 2026 show, began like a private message that accidentally went public. A Grindr chat flickered across a giant screen, intimate and oddly tender, showing a guest and a model chatting in real-time. Much like the designer himself, it was a voyeuristic way to break the ice before the lights rose on the ‘Avenue of Truth’ set, a gritty New York cityscape smelling of Byredo and humming with live music which threaded through the whole thing. Mon Laferte’s vocals anchored the atmosphere and the programme read like a playlist for an art-house road trip with performances by Lunay, Mahmood, Feid, Santos Bravos, Latin Mafia and the chaotic energy of Foos Gone Wild.
Chavarria says, “The show is rooted in love, desire and human connection on every level, with Grindr positioned as a catalyst, where intimate conversations begin and evolve into love stories, lust, and meaningful bonds that fuel the emotional core of Eterno.”
The American designer has always blurred politics and party, but here he folded queer tenderness into something worthy of a theatre play. And indeed, the evening moved in three acts, from precise daytime tailoring to jokey workwear and into full-on red carpet emotion. An all-star cast including Erin O’Connor, Julia Fox, Romeo Beckham, Goldie and Alek Wek brought this story to life.

In the first act, we saw an examination of faith through elevated daywear, where shearling and mid-weight outerwear met a refined palette of dim mint, soft pink and a warm orange-red. The silhouettes were vintage Chavarria but refined: cropped suits with roomy hips, satiny full skirts and layered knits.
Act two introduced ‘BIG WILLY,’ a new evergreen workwear line pitched at price points that actually invite more people in. This is Willy’s answer to democratising his world without diluting its values. There were khaki chinos, black workwear shirts and neat bomber shapes stamped with a cheeky new logo. It showcased luxury with a sense of humour, bridging the gap between entry-level hoodies and the dramatic gowns seen later in the night.
As the night evolved into the third act, the sophistication turned up to eleven. Shimmering cocktail dresses and relaxed tuxedos moved with a slow, intentional grace, but the show’s standout was undoubtedly the sandwich gown. It is a sculptural masterpiece that pairs a textured cloqué hourglass front with a trailing champagne-silk back, designed for a truth that simply cannot be hidden.
Footwear and sports culture were a constant throughline, grounded by Portuguese craftsmanship. While the Salon Loafer brought a 1970s Cuban-heel swagger to the tailored looks, the women’s Furia heels appeared to wrap around the toes like a leather embrace.
Chavarria even gave us a fourth instalment of his Adidas saga, this time leaning into his roots with World Cup gear officially backed by the Mexican Football Federation. Between the Megaride Copa trainers and the iconic Predator cleats, it was a stylish homecoming for the godfather of the oversized silhouette. This was complemented by a mix of archive and unreleased Ray-Ban eyewear, giving every model that unmistakable ‘Willy’ attitude.

The accessories expanded this season too, most notably with the debut of the Bronca Bag. With its loose ‘W’ belt details and magnetic leather frame, it feels like the brand’s definitive answer to the ‘it’ bag. Chavarria also teamed with Grindr for a pair of mesh underwear teased during the show, a nod to the erotic and deeply human connections that sit at the heart of the brand.
Everything about the show felt intentional, right down to the ‘Protection is Love’ T-shirt Willy wore for his final bow. Developed with The Ordinary, who acted as the show’s skincare stylist to promote a message of self-respect, the shirt is a fundraiser for Rainbow Railroad. One hundred per cent of the proceeds go to this global non-profit helping at-risk LGBTQI+ people reach safety. As Willy puts it, if we dress like who we want to be, then that is who we are.
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photography. courtesy of Gaspar Lindberg
words. Gennaro Costanzo












































































































































































































































































