iridescent reverie | loewe ss25

Under Jonathan Anderson’s creative direction, Loewe’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection dares to strip away the noise, inviting us to explore what happens when fashion speaks softly yet commands attention. The bare runway features an artwork by British artist Tracey Emin — a towering sculpture of a bird perching atop a post, setting a striking backdrop that echoes the collection’s themes of freedom and creativity.

This season, tailoring takes a playful twist — the rigid structures we’ve come to expect are replaced by a curvaceous flow that embraces the body. Long, ethereal dresses mingle effortlessly with casual T-shirts and slim trousers, creating a delightful juxtaposition of high fashion and everyday wear that feels fresh and relatable.

Just like in his menswear collection, Anderson also reintroduces mother of pearl as the sole protagonist of bell-shaped trenches, which capture the iridescence of the shells they come from. Each piece is carefully puzzled together to create form and movement. The craftsmanship shines through in other looks, too: the Trapeze dress, made of thin silk, is torn gently by hand in a process of delicate destruction that feels both radical and refined.

The surfaces are a feast for the eyes: delicate silks splashed with impressionist flowers, soft nappa leathers and feathers that feel luxurious to the touch, playfully transform Bach, Chopin, Mozart, and Manet’s floral paintings into wearable masterpieces. Sequins on knits bring a little sparkle, ensuring that even in simplicity, there’s always room for a dash of glamour.

Footwear this season beautifully grounds the dreamy silhouettes, featuring everything from classic boat shoes to elongated oxfords and the chic high-top Ballet Runners. And let’s talk about accessories — the trapezoid-shaped bag, aptly named after Loewe’s home city, Madrid, is an absolute must-have. It’s light, supple, and effortlessly stylish, while the new SS25 Puzzle bag in featherlight leather is sure to turn heads.

The collection culminates in a playful piece that captures the spirit of rock-concert nostalgia: a feathered white T-shirt featuring the sheet music of Johann Sebastian Bach. Printed on the walls of the show space, this whimsical touch adds an enchanting layer to the entire experience, reminding us that fashion is not just about what we wear, but how we feel.

Discover the collection at Loewe.com

photography. Loewe
words. Gennaro Costanzo

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