Fashion at its best is a form of expression which is grounded in real lives and bodies. It’s a tool that can reflect what’s happening in the world, and is able to mirror the times we’re living perfectly. There are shows and designs that resonate collectively with a sincere creative and philosophical vision, and are in direct link to what we are living collectively. This Sunday in Paris, we experienced just that. The new Valentino collection designed by Alessandro Michele was presented in a profoundly moving and utopian show. Signalling a strong desire for community and connection, the Spring/Summer 2026 collection was inspired by a letter from Pasolini, written in 1941, in which he described the sparks of hope that unite people as fireflies – last glimmers of hope in the face of rising darkness and the return of fascism. As the show opened with an introduction read by Pamela Anderson, lights flickered and spun in the dark. As Anderson described the fear of the return a violent global state of affairs, the models began one by one to emerge, with embroideries, sequins and silks glimmering in the play of lights, and the mysterious Michele magic began to work – emotions began flooding, a sense of despair and fear countered by beauty, feelings of amazement at togetherness, and a sense of awe at the figures walking seemingly lost, but ultimately not alone.
In the press release for the show, Michele stated: “We need to disarm the eyes and reawaken the gaze. It’s the only way to understand how the gloom of our present is actually woven with light swarms of fireflies.” Michele did just that. Brought the light to Paris, in a clear message of hope, with designs and a cast that represented the multiplicity of stories and individuals that build up a community. Anderson concluded the show with the final part of the recital – as the models emerged as a group on the runway – saying that it was the realisation that we are not alone that can bring hope and spark change. And it was in that simplicity that the audience connected to what was happening during the show. The collection rang true, in a political, moving and utopian show, moving the audience to tears.
Weaving the idea of fireflies into the designs, Michele reworked the butterfly motif that was so dear to Monsieur in the collection details, from butterfly bows, brooches and necklaces, topped off with immaculate Valentino cuts, silks, pleats and colours. The bold colours echoed the history of Valentino: deep blues and reds, the polka dots that ran alongside the Valentino palette that build up the history of the house. The collection was undeniably chic and immaculately cut and designed – it felt like there was a newly found simplicity in the designs. It brought with it a sense of vulnerability, in which we saw Michele’s artistry laid out bare and generously, aligning perfectly on the history and legacy of Valentino, and anchored perfectly in the times we’re living through. This is a show that will stick with us for a long time.
Discover the full collection on valentino.com
words. Patrick Clark
