vivienne westwood aw25 | london calling

Julian Klausner’s debut collection for Dries Van Noten was never going to be a quiet affair. Staged at the Palais Garnier, the collection played with that idea of transformation, like a performer grabbing whatever’s at hand — shoelaces, velvet scraps, a perfectly rumpled scarf — and turning it into something grand. Klausner drew from his earliest memories of fashion, rummaging through his family’s costume box.

Tailoring had a dramatic flair, with oversized collars, sweeping cuffs, and linings that stepped out from the shadows to become garments of their own. Corset belts cinched voluminous skirts, while puffed sleeves and sculpted silhouettes gave a touch of old-school glamour — but with an offbeat twist. There was something of a dancer’s poise in the stirrup pants and knit ensembles, but also a rebellious streak in the way layers clashed and collided.

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Beaded mesh shimmered like stage lights, polka dots scattered playfully across silk, and lush opera-house fabrics — velvet, jacquards, curtain tassels — were thrown into the mix. The exquisite colour palette balanced deep bottle greens and violets with the soft romance of ballet blush. Accessories ran with the theatrical spirit: shoelaces became earrings, heels came chunky and sculptural, and everything felt like it had been tied, draped, or fastened in the moment, just before stepping into the spotlight.

Klausner’s debut felt like stepping backstage at the Palais Garnier: there was history, drama, and personal expression in particular, which elevated the collection to a whole new level.

Discover the collection here.

photography. Dries Van Noten 
words. Gennaro Costanzo

Under the soaring glass roof of the Grand Palais, Chanel’s Autumn/Winter 2025/26 Ready-to-Wear collection unfolds like a theatre of dreamlike illusions. With scenographer Willo Perron’s installation — black ribbons twisting and turning through the space — the collection plays with size, length, and proportion, reinterpreting classic House codes with a fresh perspective. 

Matthieu Blazy has quietly reshaped the French heritage house, balancing tradition with fresh ideas. His knack for proportion and texture was on full display, making classic Chanel codes feel effortlessly modern. Even a pigeon seemed to approve, confidently strutting across the runway as if it had been cast for the show.

This season, silhouettes defy expectations. A cropped tweed jacket in blue, white, and pink is paired with exaggeratedly long trousers, while a voluminous poplin shirt cascades to ankle length. A black tweed jacket, edged with braid, extends into a long coat-dress adorned with jewelled buttons, and a cape transforms into jacket cuffs. Bows, ribbons, pearls, and camellias — some of Chanel’s most enduring signatures — appear in unexpected ways. Bows bloom across collars and cuffs, tumble down the length of a black down jacket, and even form sculptural cut-outs on dresses and knits. 

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Accessories continue the theme of trompe l’oeil: heels fashioned from single pearls, a cross-body bag mimicking an oversized pearl necklace, and rhinestone jewellery that revels in maximalism. Among the standout accessories were pearl-encrusted handbags — some structured and refined, others playful and oversized, shimmering under the runway lights.

Layering takes centre stage, offering new ways to build a look. A grenadine tweed trio — micro-jacket, wrap skirt, and flared trousers — is lined with flashes of bright red silk. Another ensemble in rich bronze layers a tunic and trousers beneath a buttoned-over skirt, while a sleeveless blouson gilet meets a slit ivory skirt topped with a miniskirt. Transparency plays its part too, with sheer black or white tulle capes floating over sharp tweed tailoring, and blouses layering over structured jackets, creating fluid, shifting silhouettes.

Texture and fabrication bring an added dimension to the illusion. Chiffon mimics denim, silk takes on the look of tweed, and a hooded black organza parka is adorned with bows. Sock-ankle boots and satin bouillonné details enhance the sense of delicacy, while ruff collars resembling floral corollas, lace-trimmed trench coats, and 3D petal embellishments add a poetic finish.

Chanel’s latest offering flirts with fantasy while remaining grounded in the House’s unmistakable DNA. It’s a world where classic codes are revisited, proportions are reimagined, and illusions become reality.

Discover the collection here.

photography. Chanel
words. Gennaro Costanzo

HUGO is flipping the script on tailoring. In its Spring/Summer 2025 global campaign, the brand embraces adaptability, personal expression, and the kind of suiting that defies convention. Under the creative direction of Trey Laird and photographed by Dan Jackson, the campaign unfolds in two parts — beginning with Chapter 1 this season and continuing in Autumn/Winter 2025.  

At the centre of the narrative is The GO Suit, a concept designed to make tailoring effortless and infinitely wearable. In a series of cinematic red rooms, a sharply dressed protagonist moves through different iterations of classic suiting — layering a tailored jacket over a bold print, swapping trousers for shorts, or pairing the whole look with chunky leather boots. A white three-piece suit for women makes its own statement, with close-up shots highlighting sleek belts, strappy heels, and cropped vests, reinforcing HUGO’s commitment to tailoring for all genders. The result is suiting stripped of rigid formality and reimagined for individuality — perfectly in line with the brand’s HUGO Your Way ethos.  

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But the campaign also marks the debut of HUGO FORWARD, a new platform pushing innovation in design. This season sees the release of three suiting styles crafted with HeiQ AeoniQ, a plant-based cellulose yarn designed to rival polyester in both durability and performance. The first-ever tailored separates to be made from this fibre, the drop includes a single-breasted blazer, a casual jacket, and trousers — designed to be worn together or styled apart, making sustainability and versatility one and the same.  

The HUGO Spring/Summer 2025 collection is now available in HUGO stores worldwide, through select wholesale partners, and online.

photography. Dan Jackson
words. Gennaro Costanzo