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dior aw25 | redefining menswear

 

Kim Jones had a mission with his Dior Men’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection: to redefine what menswear can aspire to be. And he succeeded! Inspired by Christian Dior’s Ligne H collection from Autumn/Winter 1954-55, Jones crafted a wardrobe that transcends time, merging couture-level artistry with contemporary menswear codes. In this seamless, shapeshifting dialogue, masculinity meets femininity.

The show, hosted at the École Militaire, opened with a sense of grandeur that felt quintessentially Dior — clean, architectural lines softened by an almost liquid movement in the fabrics. Lightly blindfolded, the models stepped out in silhouettes that shifted from structured to fluid, with opera coats and belted robes borrowed from the women’s archive making a bold, theatrical statement. The coats were transformative, like a garment morphing into a skirt. The interplay of fitted and flared silhouettes spoke to a quiet confidence: not loud, but utterly commanding.  

Silks and satins dominated the collection in a playful yet artistic take on the chiaroscuro effect — contrasting light and shadow — which added depth and drama to each garment. It’s no surprise to learn that Casanova served as a muse, with his reputation as both a ladies’ man and an extravagant dresser woven throughout. The result was a provocative dance between the masculine and feminine, from bow-topped leather shoes to jewellery that felt equal parts armour and adornment.

Accessories continued this theme of duality. Shearling Dior Roller bags were soft and tactile, contrasting with the sharp masculinity of structured Normandie totes. Similarly, the footwear featured both high-polished boots and satin bow caps, and even the trainers — embroidered with archival patterns — felt like a blend of luxury and rebellion.  

Speaking of embroidery, the Pondichéry look from Dior’s Spring/Summer 1948 haute couture collection was reborn in the final piece: a pink robe that closed the show with such quiet opulence. Its motifs spilt into other pieces, from jewellery to pinstripe-inspired patterns metamorphosed into intricate embellishments. Even the “raindrop” beading, with its meticulous hand placement, elevated simplicity into artistry. 

Despite the nods to the past, nothing felt outdated. Instead, Kim Jones offered a modern perspective, proving that extravagance and simplicity aren’t mutually exclusive.  

Discover the collection here.

photography. Dior
words. Gennaro Costanzo