Valentino’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, Pavillon des Folies, signifies a bold creative shift in the brand’s illustrious history. With Alessandro Michele stepping in as creative director, the fashion world eagerly anticipated a maximalist evolution of the iconic house. His debut collection did not disappoint.
Known for his eclectic and storytelling designs at Gucci, Michele has infused that same unpredictable energy into Valentino, and this time, it feels like a perfect match. He delved deep into Valentino’s archives, skilfully playing with historical references and reimagining them for today’s fashion landscape. The result? A kaleidoscopic fusion of eras and styles that felt fresh and exciting. Paisleys, florals, and polka dots danced across the runway, adorned with layers of ruffles, intricate embellishments, and heavy embroidery — hallmarks of Michele’s design ethos.
The collection took us on a journey through time, showcasing everything from fringed bags reminiscent of the 1960s to Art Deco earrings and contemporary facial jewellery that offered an avant-garde nod to the future. What stands out most in Pavillon des Folies is Michele’s ability to make dressing up feel like a joyful rebellion. His eclectic mix of styles, ranging from ’30s-inspired gowns to playful bow-topped pumps, transformed the runway into a celebration of fashion’s sheer pleasure.
It’s clear that Michele is breathing new life into Valentino. While deeply rooted in the house’s legacy, Pavillon des Folies heralds the start of a new era — one where beauty is as much about breaking boundaries as it is about elegance. The collection felt intensely personal, with Michele’s signature blend of flamboyance and thoughtfulness woven into each look. He invites us to reconsider beauty not just as something to admire, but as something that can heal, inspire, and, above all, bring joy to our everyday lives.
With Michele at the helm, Valentino is poised to embrace a future that’s bold, boundary-pushing, and brimming with surprises — just like Pavillon des Folies itself.
Explore the collection at Valentino.com
photography. Valentino
words. Gennaro Costanzo
