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louis vuitton aw25 | departures & arrivals

Louis Vuitton’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection pulled into the station, transforming Paris’s Gare du Nord — or rather, a stunningly recreated train station by set designer Es Devlin — into a cinematic runway. The show embraced the spirit of travel, not just as a theme but as an ethos, exploring movement, transformation, and the inescapable nostalgia of journeys past. With Kraftwerk’s Trans-Europe Express as its soundtrack, the collection echoed the pulse of departures and arrivals — featuring the album cover itself across select pieces.

The venue, reminiscent of the 19th-century L’Étoile du Nord station, set the stage for a collection that celebrated both the romance and melancholy of departures and arrivals. After all, travel has always been an integral part of Louis Vuitton’s DNA — the house built its reputation by crafting the perfect trunk for an era of expanding horizons.

Nicolas Ghesquière’s designs were a bold exploration of futuristic silhouettes blended with vintage inspirations. Structured coats with exaggerated 1980s shoulders, square silhouettes, and buttery leather jackets dominated the lineup. Pinstripes reminiscent of conductor uniforms added subtle nods to rail travel. Bags were central to the narrative, including updates to classic designs like the Keepall and new creations such as L’Express — a softer, muted reinterpretation of Louis Vuitton’s iconic luggage. Statement hats ranged from oversized bucket toppers to sculptural berets.

Playful combinations included tulle skirts cinched with thick belts, velvet dresses adorned with bejewelled yokes, and transparent rain jackets layered over bold ensembles. Chunky knitwear and faux fur added texture to the collection. Ghesquière embraced maximalism with layered textures and standout accessories. Thigh-high socks paired with ankle booties, crystal embellishments on casual shirts, and logo monogram pockets punctuated scarves — all reflected personal style on the go. The final look even featured a bag shaped like a Parisian streetlight.

A notable highlight was also the Bowie-esque makeup look sported by a model, which could be seen as a preview of the bold, artistic direction Pat McGrath might bring to Louis Vuitton’s upcoming makeup line, La Beauté Louis Vuitton.

Ghesquière’s Vuitton woman is a traveler at heart, always ready for the next departure, whether it’s a journey of self-discovery or a voyage through the world of fashion. This collection celebrates her multifaceted nature, blending contrasting elements to create a look that is both adventurous and enchanting.

Discover the collection here.

photography. Louis Vuitton
words. Gennaro Costanzo