Lacoste took over the Roland-Garros stadium this FW24 season, transforming the white lines of the centre court into the catwalk. For her Parisian debut, creative director Pelagia Kolotouros reflects on the label’s archives and rooted her inspiration in the decadently creative Années Folles, when founder René “the crocodile” Lacoste carried the title of number one tennis player in the world. Aptly titled “Victory of 1927”, the collection paid homage to the Davis Cup championship won by Lacoste that year. A historic win that then led to the construction of the very venue chosen to host the runway show this season.
Setting the tone of the collection by merging classic tailoring with athleisure, the opening look featured a black zip-up jacket made from a waterproof technical fabric, adding in some contrast with mesh and green trim detailing at the collar, and was layered under a wool coat of the same colour, its oversized dimensions allowing for free, unrestricted movement. Breaking off the monochromatic palette with the accessories, the model carried a bright green wool blanket and a mossy green, crocodile-embossed briefcase to which was tied a silk handkerchief with printed tennis-inspired imagery.
Lacoste
Fall winter 2024 2025,
pret a porter,
Womenswear
Lacoste
Fall winter 2024 2025,
pret a porter,
Womenswear
Lacoste
Fall winter 2024 2025,
pret a porter,
Womenswear
Weaving layers of references to the brand’s heritage in the collection, Kolotouros revisited the original design of the Lacoste signature tennis polo, using it either as a layering statement underneath knits and leather jackets or as a preppy stand-alone elevated by accessorising it with delicate silk scarves. Other nods to the life of René Lacoste, such as a photographic print of the tennis player smashing a ball or a Pop Art-style jacquard decorated with patterns reminiscent of his Davis Cup win, were fused with the modern silhouettes of utilitarian jackets and straight overskirts and dresses, or even the athletic chunky footwear, to truly encapsulate the essence of the label’s history into the garments.
Showcasing technical prowess by introducing new proportions in tailoring, the collection included a vast array of pleated skirts inspired by the ones worn by tennis champion Suzanne Lenglen across different textures and materials, such as cotton and synthetics, but also leather. Further juxtaposing old-school dress-code attributes with femininity and glamour, cable knits ranged from classic V-neck sweaters to a matching set consisting of a crop top and spanks falling under the ongoing “no pants” trend. The athleticism imbued all throughout Lacoste’s DNA was also reflected through the colour palette, ranging from slick and elegant blacks to clay-court terracotta orange, without forgetting the emblematic Lacoste green.
Amelia Gray closed the show adorned in a white midi pleated skirt with crocodile lace trims, and silver threaded knitted mesh, topped off with an oversized trench, bringing the collection to the pinnacle of casual chic. Perfectly juggling between the finesse of the feminine body and the rawness of utilitarian garments, the final look concluded Kolotouros’s mission to capture the essence of the life behind the brand we know today.
View the collection at lacoste.com.
words. Leelou S. Reboh
