watch. NOMOS Glashütte
Ahoi neomatik 38 date sky
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watch. NOMOS Glashütte
Ahoi neomatik 38 date sand
After over 175 years of watchmaking, NOMOS Glashütte knows a thing or two about timepieces. The well-known watch brand is held in high regard for their distinct design and intricate detailing. NOMOS Glashütte specialises in crafting artisan manual-winding and automatic mechanical watches. The word “Nomos” stems from the spirit of law in Greek, a concept that ripples through the brand since its formation.
Thomas Höhnel serves as creative powerhouse behind NOMOS, in particular the NOMOS’ sports model Ahoi. Hailing from Berlin’s University of the Arts and Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London, Höhnel ensures every aspect of the watch — from the straps to the buckles to the packaging — is all streamlined under the brand’s vision and aesthetic.
To celebrate the release of NOMOS Glashütte’s Ahoi neomatik in shades sand and sky, mechanical watch designer Thomas Höhnel chats with Schön! about his work at NOMOS Glashütte, what his design process is, and more.
watch. NOMOS Glashütte
Ahoi neomatik 38 date sand
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watch. NOMOS Glashütte
Ahoi neomatik 38 date sand
You joined NOMOS Glashütte back in 2011. How have you seen the brand and its designs grow and change in the past decade?
I feel that NOMOS Glashütte became more and more mature in the last decade. 10 years ago we were very progressive for a brand in the luxury industry in terms of our designs — some of our ideas were quite impulsive. Over the years, NOMOS proved to be a well-known manufacturer not only in Germany but also abroad. That has given us the confidence to build on our values and invest in our reputation as a watch manufacturer based in Glashütte. We have seen some of the biggest steps forward for the brand with the introduction of our in-house escapement system in 2014 or the introduction of our in-house-built automatic calibers DUW 3001 and DUW 6101.
You first studied design at the University of the Arts in Berlin and the Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London. How has your experience taught you what you needed to know to approach your role at NOMOS Glashütte?
Product design is a very broad field so you learn to think in a wider context but also to set your focus on the smallest details. I think without this experience in mind I would easily get lost in details. Our work at NOMOS demands stamina for work on details, so it is important to be able to step back sometimes and put your focus on a wider context.
watch. NOMOS Glashütte
Ahoi neomatik 38 date sand
Previously you designed everything from bus stops to exhibition displays. What is it about watches and their designs that excite you?
The fact that you can wear a watch makes it a very personal product. A watch seems to have a personality. That makes it a very interesting object to me. Also, our striving in translating the quality of the craftsmanship into the smallest visual detail has some satisfying aspects – the feeling that every element has the right place and the right expression.
What is the collaboration process like between you and your design team at NOMOS Glashütte?
We do not work in a very linear process. We collaborate a lot with different departments in Berlin but also in Glashütte. Even though we live in times of Zoom-Meetings being an integral part of office life, we go to Glashütte on a very regular basis. It interrupts the daily work routine but it is a difference to talk to colleagues and to be able to discuss projects and challenges in person.
watch. NOMOS Glashütte
Ahoi neomatik 38 date sky
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watch. NOMOS Glashütte
Ahoi neomatik 38 date sky
You’re best known for the award-winning model Ahoi. With the release of Ahoi neomatik, what differs between these two models?
The first notable difference is the size – 38 mm in diameter gives the Ahoi an excellent medium size. Where the original 40 mm was quite big and present on the wrist, this watch will be more casual — an everyday companion, which was the initial idea of the Ahoi. With the implementation of our flat automatic movement DUW 6101, we were able to build the Ahoi with a date in a smaller diameter but still with a flat case. Our movement allows us to have a very large date window in the classic 3 o‘clock position. Also, we have two new colours, sky and sand, which underline the light and casual character of the watch.
What are some new features that excite you about this new model?
We were working hard to get the right proportions with the smaller diameter, with the big date window and still don‘t lose this open spacious dial with its clean and elegant feeling. I think the Ahoi works very nicely in this new size!
watch. NOMOS Glashütte
Ahoi neomatik 38 date sky
What are some of the ways the new model is meeting the needs of wearers?
We think that the Ahoi with a date function in a medium size will fill a gap in our collection.
For those who wear NOMOS Glashütte’s watches, what do you hope they think or feel after using them?
I hope that people who wear our watches enjoy looking at their watches not only to read the time but because they are intrigued by the noble simplicity of these instruments. It would be great if they can enjoy their watch after years of wearing it as much as they did on the first day.
Lastly, what are you looking to design next for NOMOS Glashütte?
I would love to make the next new complication look as simplistic as possible.
watch. NOMOS Glashütte
Proprietary movement DUW 6101 with dark gray strap
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watch. NOMOS Glashütte
Proprietary movement DUW 6101 with blue black strap
Learn more about NOMOS Glashütte at nomos-glashuette.com.
