New Gen designers consistently bring fresh perspectives to the fashion world, and this season at London Fashion Week was no exception. From the innovative artistry of HARRI’s to MITHRIDATE’s bold nod to Yunnan’s cultural roots, each collection painted a unique narrative, setting the stage for a season of vibrant creativity.
HARRI debuted a womenswear line that played with exaggerated proportions, while Tolu Coker celebrated British-Nigerian heritage through politically charged yet joyful designs. Masha Popova transitioned from her rebellious roots to more refined sophistication, maintaining her playful charm. Meanwhile, Di Petsa evoked deep emotions, blending myth and raw femininity.
Schön! has curated the most compelling highlights from these and other standout New Gen designers. Their vision, whether through artistic risks or cultural homage, continues to push the boundaries of contemporary fashion.
HARRI | Chapter Five
HARRI’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, “Chapter Five,” marks a bold evolution in the designer’s journey, introducing his first-ever womenswear line. Drawing inspiration from the art of Wolfe Von Lenkiewicz, the collection bridges past and future, showcasing the designer’s signature craftsmanship and his affinity for exaggerated proportions. Each look is meticulously handcrafted, tailored to reflect the unique aura of each model, celebrating individuality and transformation.
In addition to the inflated elements HARRI is known for, such as voluminous latex trousers, the collection introduces daring, skintight slip-on dresses. These come in a predominantly neutral colour palette of black, white, and grey. A standout moment on the runway was a single-draped, gauzy latex dress in pale jade, demonstrating the versatility of this dominant fabric throughout the collection.
The visual nod to Von Lenkiewicz’s art was most apparent in the closing looks — a trio of black mini-dresses presented by models moving in eerie unison, followed by a striking hooped, inflated twin bodysuit.
Charlie Constantinou | Season 4
In “Season 4,” Charlie Constantinou sets his sights on the desert, crafting a collection that draws inspiration from the harsh extremes of desert life for an elevated gorpcore aesthetic. Influenced by the resilience of Bedouin tribes, the line features versatile pieces designed to endure the unpredictable — lightweight bouclé fabrics for the sweltering heat and quilted, durable materials for cold desert nights.
The opening look showcased hand-dyed lime-green nylon outerwear layered with zippered parachute pants, a process echoed throughout the collection. Additional menswear highlights included textured hooded vests, harnessed tops, and retractable trousers. The collection strikes a masterful balance between functionality and style, with Constantinou’s signature adaptability in full force.
The colour palette transitions from warm desert tones to deep greens and blues, symbolising the shift between landscapes. Accessories were another standout feature, including quilted, tonal backpacks and handbags, chunky leg warmers, and the debut of the Lovo boots — a collaboration with Demon Footwear.
MITHRIDATE | Spring Fusion
MITHRIDATE bloomed in bold primary colours with its Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Creative director Demon Zhang drew inspiration from her birthplace in Yunnan, Southwest China, channelling the region’s vibrant traditions to create a striking “Spring Fusion” on the runway.
The collection opened with boxy silhouettes embellished with beaded floral details. A standout piece was a fringed, structured dress that reimagined traditional Chinese formalwear with delicate lace accents. Other garments were adorned with vibrant spherical pom-poms, symbolising the brand’s deep connection to nature. Zhang integrated elements of her community and family heritage through intricate prints, patterns, and embroidery techniques.
Texture was a dominant theme throughout, with ruffled formalwear incorporating sheer panels. Capped gowns, spherical embellishments, and butterfly motifs added a whimsical energy to the lineup. MITHRIDATE’s signature tie-dye patterns also made a strong impact, with fiery hues of pink, purple, red, and orange transforming bomber jackets, distressed tops, and tailored suits into bold, expressive pieces.
Di Petsa | My Body is a Labyrinth
Di Petsa’s SS25 collection, “My Body is a Labyrinth,” mesmerised London Fashion Week with a powerful blend of myth and emotion. Inspired by the story of Ariadne and Theseus, designer Dimitra Petsa dives deep into the labyrinth of the self — exploring themes of desire, loss, and love.
The collection also introduced gender-fluid menswear, with Di Petsa’s signature Wetlook reinterpreted in pastel hues and breezy, draped linens. A standout “Tan Line” print traced sun-kissed illusions across the body, invoking memories of fading summer warmth. Flowing silks and degradé meshes added to the dreamlike mood, transforming the ordinary into the mythical.
Bold motifs, including period blood prints and hand-carved metal reliefs on the debut Tama bag, celebrate feminine power and natural rhythms. The show was a poetic reflection on vulnerability, urging us to embrace the hidden parts of ourselves, all with a mystical edge.
Tolu Coker | Olapeju
Tolu Coker’s SS25 collection, Olapeju, named after her mother, beautifully celebrates the richness of British-Nigerian heritage and the strength of immigrant communities. Drawing on her family’s journey from Lagos to London, Coker blends the personal with the political, showcasing the unity and resilience of a time when “no blacks, no dogs, no Irish” signs stained the streets. But instead of focusing on pain, Olapeju is a tribute to joy, love, and the unsung matriarchs who built community and family in the face of adversity.
With trans-seasonal silhouettes, 60s-inspired tailoring, and bold equestrian nods to North Kensington’s Westway Stables, the collection balances sharp Yoruba style with European flair. Sustainability shines, with upcycled materials and reclaimed satins elevating each piece’s story. In collaboration with Manolo Blahnik, Coker presents three new boot styles and reimagined classic silhouettes, using deadstock leather to embody sophistication with purpose. From matching co-ords to bold hats, Olapeju transforms everyday looks into heirlooms.
Masha Popova | Impulse
Masha Popova’s SS25 collection marked a new chapter for the designer, embracing a more mature and refined aesthetic. Titled “Impulse,” the collection shifted from the rebellious edge of past seasons, opting for a sophisticated yet playful approach. On the runway at 180 The Strand, tweed jackets, oversized glasses, and pussy-bow blouses embodied this transition from girlhood to womanhood. But Popova’s signature wit was still present, with intentionally misaligned garments capturing the perfectly imperfect moments of adult life.
Drawing inspiration from Patrick Magaud’s Exhibition in Paris, Popova leaned into the spontaneity of dressing. Jersey dresses with straps slipping off shoulders, caped jackets, and skirts with exposed zippers embraced everyday wardrobe mishaps. These quirks weren’t just styling tricks — they were seamlessly built into the garments, highlighting Popova’s technical prowess.
Denim remained a central focus, with trench coats and tailored trousers treated like aged denim. Tweed spun from indigo cotton and over 65 custom pairs of Adidas Superstars with antique brass studs added texture and playfulness to a collection that cleverly balanced grown-up style with a wink at life’s little imperfections.
Johanna Parv’s SS25 collection is designed for the woman who’s always in motion. Inspired by the everyday commute, Parv’s pieces make transitions seamless, elegant, and effortlessly functional. Signature skirt-shorts, cycling zip-tops, and neck bags return, while new additions — like water-repellent linen suits and unisex tote backpacks — add practicality and style. The Tech Vent Dress, with its garden-friendly storage, brings a nostalgic yet modern touch, embodying the collection’s adaptable ethos.
Parv’s clever use of silicone grip dots keeps bags secure and garments perfectly fitted, while models — barefaced and fresh — glide down the runway, subtly adjusting their looks as they go. The colour palette, a shift from Parv’s darker tones, shines with lime green, lilac, and metallics, inspired by the strength and flexibility of aluminium.
Every piece moves with the wearer, transforming as needed, ensuring the Parv woman remains poised, collected, and always on the go.
imagery. Charlie Constantinou, Di Petsa, HARRI (Alexis White), Johanna Parv, MITHRIDATE, Masha Popova, Tolu Coker
words. Gennaro Costanzo
