
Marc Jacobs just transported us back to the Valley of the Dolls, but with a 2025 twist that would make Jacqueline Susann’s head spin. At the New York Public Library, he unveiled a Spring collection that channelled the exaggerated femininity of 1960s Hollywood glamour, reimagined through his distinctly surreal lens.
Titled Courage, the collection continued Jacobs’ recent exploration of exaggerated, doll-like silhouettes that we saw in his previous seasons – namely Joy, Period and Wonder. This time, he pushed the boundaries even further, presenting a fantastical world where proportion and reality were delightfully distorted.
The runway was a parade of Marc Jacobs signatures: extreme plays on volume, striking colour combinations, and wonderfully oddball touches. Models strutted in puffed-up high-waist trousers, bubble-hem skirts, and jackets with exaggerated shoulders. The pieces seemed to grow more voluminous as the show progressed, culminating in a series of extraordinary bulbous ball gowns that looked like they’d been plucked from a fever dream of 1950s glamour.
Jacobs’ fondness for the surreal was evident in the accessories. Flats with uber-extended, pointy toes and cartoon-character pumps and boots added a touch of whimsy to the already fantastical looks. The collection felt like a creative call to action, urging viewers to dream big and take up space in a world that often feels constraining.
The designer communicated his vision through pre-prepared notes that emphasised courage as a necessity, urging viewers to dream without limits. The makeup, crafted by Pat McGrath, featured sequinned dots on models’ lips — a potential commentary on silencing voices in challenging times.
A standout moment came with Alex Consani closing the show in a puffy red dress, a nod to Valentine’s Day that embodied the collection’s theme of audacious love. Echoes of Betty Boop and Marie Antoinette danced through trapeze and hourglass dresses, inviting personal interpretation from each viewer.
As with his Fall 2024 collection, Jacobs continues to challenge our perceptions of form and function. In a time of global uncertainty, Jacobs offered a five-minute escape into a world of unbridled creativity. But it was also a reminder that in fashion, as in life, courage and imagination can be our most powerful tools.
Discover the collection here.
photography. Alastair McKimm
words. Gennaro Costanzo