Rahul Mishra. Photography by Nick Merzetti.
We’ve already done Milan so without further ado, let’s jump to Paris where the first designer on my list was Rahul Mishra. Passionate as always, Mishra shared with us the inspiration he had while creating his latest collection, which is an ode to the fabled tradition of couture. In fact, the designer’s very approach is based on the ideas of sustainability that present fashion as a tool to create participation and empower the craft community.
“Metropolis 2” is a collection with underlying themes of human growth, cityscapes, nature, subtle colourways, evolved 3D embroideries, and more. Mishra himself says that when he looks at a city, he sees them as ever-growing, and anything that is growing needs to have life. These are the words that best reflect some of the gowns showcased in Mishra‘s collection where certain pieces have taken more than 3400 human hours of hand-cutting and hand-embroidering.
Ralph and Russo
Pink is never too much — even more so when palm trees are part of the equation. Despite showing in the French capital, Ralph and Russo managed to take us in a “Miami Beach” with their lastest collection. Framed with a vibe of ’70s boudoir, the brand contrasted the bohemianism of the era with contemporary chic
Forming a carefree day-to-night combination, lace corsets and embellished bodysuits were paired with colour-washed shorts, denim culottes, stacked sneakers, and rattan bags. Out also came trim minidresses, cotton maxi dresses, oversized smoking jackets, silk kimono in swirling pastel hues, and something very worth mentioning: a fluffy bathrobe. In all, both the collection and the show were a celebration of eternal youth!
Andreas Kronthaler x Vivienne Westwood
Andreas Kronthaler’s first inspiration for this Vivienne Westwood collection was a cloud — which he most probably pictured on Bella Hadid from the get-go, as she wore it preciously. With a dash of the ’50s, pin-up, and whimsicality, Kronthaler played with volumes that looked somehow medieval and romantic.
The collection featured jackets that can be worn upside down, pockets becoming armholes, an oversized black net hat with an elegant elongated shape, high-waisted jogging pants, a necklace made of crab claws taken from a seafood restaurant in Thailand and, of course, corseted dresses.
Kronthaler strikes a perfect equilibrium between French inspiration and the ethos the punk Dame herself first envisioned and embraced. Adding the touch of her husband, the label remains unmistakable Westwood with environmental activism still at the forefront. We couldn’t dare miss the illustration of a Sumatran tiger, also seen on the show’s invitation, to announce their support for the conservation society.
Issey Miyake. Photography by Nick Merzetti.
This season, Issey Miyake more than a fashion show was a celebration of joy! Entitled “A sense of Joy,” the collection (and show) was indeed just that. “It all started from a simple idea of bringing people from different regions and generations together, different as they are, forming circles and holding hands, as we all share this joy intrinsic to who we are that is not bound by space and time,” the brand explained.
On a personal note, I must add it truly was one of the most brilliant shows of this whole fashion week circuit — and I am sure I am not the only one to say so. There were models on motorised skateboards swishing around the venue as their colourful jumpsuits filled with air like sails. Models in nude underwear held their hands aloft as colourful pleated dresses fell downwards from the sky into their bodies, which sprung up and down with them.
Dawei
Dawei Sun, the designer behind the house Dawei, used three words to describe his collection: fluidity, freedom and power.
The designer was inspired by ancient Egypt — but not as we know it. It was the Egypt of his imagination, built with the help of the books read by him. A future Egypt that only he knows, brought to life through the clothes.
Using paper-like fabrics, knit, and cotton, asymmetric draping and ruffles, vibrant colours like neon lights as well as deconstructed details on knitted maxi-dress and corsets revealed the carefully curated narratives — all put together in a sort of invitation to a journey through time and space.
Anrealage. Photography by Nick Merzetti.
Back to school? Anrealage‘s show sure felt that way. Models were coming down the catwalk wearing an overall neutral colour palette of blues and khakis with denim and cardigan vests. Preppy classic chinos, raw denim, beige trench coats, navy blazers with crest patches, blue Oxford shirts, argyle knits, houndstooth coats, pleated skirts, white logo Ts, and cricket sweaters all made their way down the runaway
The designs were shown in threes by threes, each one reproducing a different visual angle as if viewed from above, below or the side. Kunihiko Morinaga, a finalist for this year’s LVMH Prize, proved there is a balance between creativity and commercial appeal with his wearable garments that blur the boundaries of 2D and 3D, recasting Instagram fashion images IRL and translating digital distortions into surrealist visions.
Victoria & Tomas. Photography by Nick Merzetti.
Victoria & Tomas always take the city — seen from different angles — as their inspiration. This time though, the duo were more concentrated on the foreigners, the well-dressed tourists that may think is an adventure to go to Paris, mixed with a quieter Parisian style, with accents of kitsch, sometimes aggressive, all blending in.
Cotton, linen, leather, fluid light fabrics used in flowing dresses, skirts, and constructed garments were complemented by oversized and quirky touches. All these elements were used to put together this “brutal glamour” of tourists visiting the French capital wanting to dress for a Parisian adventure. The looks were completed by little details — from the collar shapes, buttons and chording, to the angularity in construction of the fabric, down to the trend of oversized bags, and wide-brimmed hat accessories.
Asked if there was a message they would like the future tourists to know, they’ll more likely want to bring their own originality to the city so they could be inspired in the future.
Shiatzy Chen
Starting from the idea that “without bamboo, people turn vulgar,” Shiatzy Chen selected “Bamboo Artistry” as the main theme to portray the resilient character of bamboo in her latest collection.
The influence of cultural heritage can be found among the apparel silhouettes in this season, the slim fit and partial embroidery, elegantly added with lace frame embroidery, the silhouette of ancient Chinese underwear element, applied shirring details on to printed fabrics and striped laces with contemporary clean lines. In terms of material, we could see a variety of organza combined with delicate fabrics such as lace, cotton, silk, satin, chiffon. The colour palette felt graphic, with whites, tans, greens, reds and a surprising predominance of black.
Redemption
“The generation of kids of 1968 helped make the world a better place, fighting for human rights, racial equality, and reproductive rights, and against the war in Vietnam. There is a big parallel between then and now. But what we are seeing in New York is different, too, the call to action is coming from the younger generation. I think they are our only hope, and they are right. We don’t have a plan B, so we have to change now.” Those are the words of Bebe Moratti and the ethos that stands bein by his latest collection for Redemption. The message “sustainability is the new black” did not go amiss on every attendee’s gift bag.
Using only vegan, biodegradable leather, organic cotton, recycled denim, lycra made out of reclaimed fishing nets, and silk that was “certified to have a considerably less negative environmental impact,” his Spring-Summer collection left a very clear message.
Check out our full backstage cover of PFW here and here.
words. Landiana Yolo
photography. Nick Merzetti+ YU Nagai
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