Maud Traon is a ground-breaking jewellery artist who launched her new collection into the world of fashion by combining precious and unexpected materials. Instantly creating an innovative approach to jewellery design, Traon’s variety of craft techniques used help to convey dynamic, imaginative themes of dream landscape and fantasy. This collection see’s her expand on her trademark concepts of explosive colour fusions and surprising usage of mixed-media, effortlessly creating otherworldly jewellery at its finest.
Have you always wanted to be a Jewellery designer?
Oh, no! It kind of happened really.
When did you realise that jewellery making was your calling?
I had a shy start at making jewellery. So I started a course an afternoon a week while studying Communication in Paris, it soon started to be the only thing I was looking forward to doing. At the end of the academic year I decided that was it, I left everything and started to do jewellery.
Photography by Nina Kadatko
You launched your career by studying Communications and Jewellery in Paris and then came to London in 2005 for an MA. How do you think the two cities have influenced your unique style?
The cultural differences had a massive impact on my work. One of the first projects I started, when I first arrived in London, was on packet of crisps. I had an ambiguous attraction to them. They represented at the same time the junk, the bad, but such a natural thing to snack on here. It almost started to become a symbol of freedom to me. The other thing about them was the vibrant colour of the packets, that I at any point could relate to food or something edible. So I suppose this complex relationship between fake and real, the confusion between the inside and the outside, is something that is still very present in my work. And of course a fascination for colours.
Describe the process of creating a piece of your jewellery, how do you go about designing them and who creates the actual piece?
I create the pieces, they are all handmade. Concerning the design that is a tricky question. I have in fact started sketching only very recently, but I collect lots of things. From pizza flyers and wrapping paper of chocolate bars, to tacky object. And I am permanently chasing unusual glitter…stone shapes with interesting colours. I suppose the act of collecting on such a regular basis creates informal thoughts and guidelines that very often become the starting point of a piece.
What are your favourite materials to work with?
I would say glitter. But I guess it is more the entire process of making really.
Photography by Nina Kadatko
A series that really stands out is ‘Dreams: Rings and other shocking things’ where each piece is so flamboyant and complex that it looks like it could be found in space. Where did the inspiration for that come from?
[By thinking] what ring would I wear on my “I want to be a princess” day? In an imaginary ideal planet, where the Milky Way would create stardust for us to wear. A way to escape the reality of the inevitable value system.
What is next on the horizon for you?
I will take part to an exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris next September and [I] will take part in Goldsmith’s Fair next October.
How do you hope Maud Traon will evolve?
For the moment I am really happy being able to present jewellery collections, as well as some more artistic and more exhibition based work. And I truly hope to be able to maintain this balance, as to me these two directions are really feeding each other.
Photography by Nina Kadatko
Words / Caroline Schmitt Follow Caroline on Twitter @caro_schmitt
A world of crisp tailoring and a startling black and white palette is shot by Artur Szymocha in this Schön! online editorial. Model Aleksander Dynowski wears Gucci, Jil Sander, and Loewe styled by Jakub Koper with hair by Arkadiusz Ukleja and make up by Cincior.
sweater, long sleeves, skirt + hat. COS
boots. Vintage Archive
bag. Archive
tights. Uniqlo
Take a snowy stroll with photographer Mariana Valente and model Mariana Bauer who wears cozy looks by Burberry, Moon Boot, Jean Paul Gaultier and others.
sweater, long sleeves, skirt + hat. COS
boots. Vintage Archive
tights. Uniqlo
opposite
bag. Archive
jumpsuit + long sleeves. Zara
hat. Intage Archive
opposite
jumpsuit + long sleeves. Zara
skirt. Source Unknown
shoes. Moon Boot
hat. Intage Archive
gloves + gaiter. Archive
fur coat. Vintage Archive
hat. Sinéad O’Dwyer
opposite
fur coat. Vintage Archive
dress. Zara
shoes. Moon Boot
hat. Sinéad O’Dwyer
gloves. Meryl Rogge
top. Jean Paul Gaultier
long sleeves. COS
skirt. Brocki
shoes. Burberry
scarf. Burberry
gloves. Meryl Rogge
gaiter. Archive
jacket + scarf. Burberry
jacket + shoes. Burberry
top. Jean Paul Gaultier
skirt. Brocki
scarf. Burberry
gaiter. Archive
opposite
jacket, shoes + scarf. Burberry
fur coat. Vintage Archive
hat. Sinéad O’Dwyer
gloves. Meryl Rogge
From ‘The Nightingale’ to ‘Speak No Evil’, Aisling Franciosi has built a career portraying women haunted by unspoken histories – rage buried beneath grief, tenderness hardened by survival. Now, in Kurt Sutter’s new Western saga ‘The Abandons’, she returns in a different register: quiet power. As Trisha Van Ness, the heiress to a ruthless dynasty, Franciosi plays a woman caught between privilege and entrapment, loyalty and rebellion.
Speaking to Schön!, Franciosi reflects on the volatility of Western narratives, the emotional architecture of ambition, and the thrill – and terror – of stepping into a character whose strength lives not in violence alone, but in restraint.
dress. Alberta Ferretti
opposite
dress. Khyeli
jewellery. Repossi
Trisha Van Ness is fierce, guarded, and caught between loyalty and ambition. When you first met her on the page, what part of her felt closest to you – and what part felt most foreign?
This way of working was quite new to me in that, you know, I signed up to this just having read a pilot. I got to know Trisha’s character as they were writing for her, which is a very new and different way of working for me. I think on the page, I felt that I could really connect with her being underestimated.
She’s underestimated by her family, by her mother in particular, and this frustrates her as she caresses ambition, has a lot to offer. And it’s not only her being shut out of the family’s business, but she feels a complete disconnect in terms of any affection or love from her family. There is a fire that the indignation at being underestimated can bring out in someone; I was curious to see where that would lead her.
You’ve often played women carrying something heavy – grief, trauma, buried rage. How do you locate the soft, human center inside characters shaped by violence?
I think there’s a part of me that finds playing those kinds of characters quite cathartic. In my day-to-day life, I tend to expect myself to be a bit softer and maybe a bit more positive: I don’t necessarily allow myself to express negative emotions so easily. And so I find it extremely rewarding when I get to play these characters who are just letting their rage out in whatever way they need to.
So for me, it’s more about tapping into the rage or the defiance or the indignation. Rather than struggling to find the softness in them, I feel like I myself as a person, can bring a little bit of that to them.
Your performances rely on stillness and interiority – and they speak loudly. Where does that come from?
I don’t have a specific process. And it’s something I used to be a bit embarrassed about, if I was asked, How do you do this? The truth is, I’m not always quite sure. I think the stillness is the only thing I want to try and achieve in a scene, regardless of everything else; it’s something that always feels real for a character, even if the world they exist in is a heightened one. I think this may be my attempt to make the character feel very grounded and real.
dress. Erdem
jewellery. Repossi
‘The Abandons’ is your first Western. Beyond dust and gunfire, was there something in the moral landscape of the frontier that resonated with your life now?
I believe the world is in quite a volatile space right now. And I don’t think it’s any surprise that Westerns are having a real resurgence because they offer a setup we know so well. It’s nostalgic – about good and evil, where there are good guys and bad guys. People find comfort in that.
But if the good guys do something bad, just because they’re the good guys, does it make it any less bad? Being able to look at morality through the lens of a Western can bring a strange comfort.
The Van Ness family is powerful but also secretive and fractured. Did working inside a story about dynastic pressure make you reflect on your own family dynamics or upbringing in any surprising ways?
Playing alongside Gillian (Anderson), I feel so lucky that my mom is my best friend. Mother-daughter relationships can get complex. During shooting, I did find myself thinking, Thank god I have such a good relationship with my mom.
‘The Abandons’ explores territory – literal and emotional. What would you fight to protect?
Family. I think we all like to believe we would behave in very moral ways always, but I could see myself possibly being led astray if it came to protecting my family.
Violence and tenderness coexist in Kurt Sutter’s world. How do you find humanity in that duality?
It comes back to understanding what drives a character – their background, how their stories have shaped them. With Trisha, I wanted to understand her dreams and how she could pursue them in a world so oppressive. The more she leans into what she wants, the more she’s at odds with her environment. To my mind, the drama comes from those things clashing.
Was there a moment on set when you thought, This is new territory?
Something I had never really done was play a character who’s the rich girl in town, someone refined. I don’t usually get those roles. You think of them differently from a scruffy or traumatized character.
Did Trisha leave anything with you after filming wrapped?
I came away thinking again that the relationships you have can really shape the course of how events unfold in your life. When we see Trisha at the end – I can’t give anything away – but you’re left wondering, Oh God, what is she going to do next? If we were to explore further, I’d be very curious where she ends up. But I don’t think every role should leave you feeling like you’ve given yourself away forever.
Women in Westerns are often sidelined or symbolic. What did you want to complicate about this archetype?
With ‘The Abandons’, rules are more lax – it’s the wild West after all. You have this young woman who expects more for herself and doesn’t want to buy into societal expectations. She’s inspired by her mother, who is a badass, yet it’s her mother imposing those very rules on her.
And honestly, Lena (Headey) and Gillian do so much of the heavy lifting in showing that women were very much central to this world.
You’ve spoken about the emotional toll of ‘The Nightingale’. Did a large-scale ensemble like ‘The Abandons’ shift something for you creatively?
With ‘The Nightingale’, I had months to get the character in my bones. Heavy material, yes, but incredibly satisfying. With ‘The Abandons’, I was discovering my character while filming. It’s a new skill – learning how to bring artistic merit to very different kinds of productions.
You return again and again to psychologically complex women. What part of you keeps gravitating there?
I think it’s a combination of being satisfied with those roles and the industry seeing you do something well, so they think of you only that way. And as long as the writing is good, I’m not going to turn something down just because it’s dark. But recently I’ve had chances with comedy with ‘Twinless’, which was my first. I didn’t always know what I was doing, but I really enjoyed it. Some of the parts I’ve been given have spoiled me – ‘The Nightingale’, especially. It stretched me so much. And I feel very lucky for that. I never want to not acknowledge that.
