fbpx

hermès | equestrian drama

There’s something about the way Hermès does luxury — it never shouts, never tries too hard. But this season, Nadège Vanhée introduced a quiet kind of drama. Autumn/Winter 2025 was about movement — clothes that shift and adapt, that feel like an extension of the body rather than just something you wear.  

Set in the Garde Républicaine, a venue steeped in French cavalry tradition, the runway was covered in freshly raked dirt — a subtle nod to the stables, but also a reinforcement of the grounded elegance that defines Hermès.  

Silhouettes were sharp and assured. Shoulders structured, waists drawn in, lines clean and distinct. Yet nothing felt rigid — this was Hermès, after all. Leather took centre stage, sculpted into tailored coats, fitted trousers, and micro shorts trimmed with tassels. Cropped jackets featured quilted panels, while long coats were lined with felted wool, adding unexpected softness to the precise cuts. The interplay of masculine and feminine ran throughout: sleek wool trousers balanced voluminous blanket coats, and structured jackets layered over flowing knits, creating a dialogue between discipline and ease.  

The palette was restrained — black dominated, softened by beige and deep brown marbling. Then, a singular jolt of colour: a high-shine green leather coat with matching trousers, breaking the quietude with a flash of boldness.  

Texture carried much of the conversation. Thick felt met supple leather, knitwear sculpted into mufflers, and suede trenches moved with an almost liquid ease. The enveloping coats stood out — engineered drapery that felt both protective and effortless. Layering was pragmatic but never careless—ribbed knit gloves stretched beyond sleeves, scarves were folded just so, and sweaters were draped over shoulders with calculated nonchalance.  

Accessories remained rooted in utility. Gloves elongated the silhouette, boots in supple calfskin were sculpted for ease, and bags — perhaps the most anticipated pieces — were deliberately understated, their richness in texture rather than embellishment.  

Vanhée’s Hermès has never been about excess, but this season, there was a quiet boldness. This was Hermès at its most assured — quiet luxury before the term lost its meaning, a wardrobe meant to be lived in, not just admired.

Discover the collection here.

photography. Filippo Fior, Virgile Guinard
words. Gennaro Costanzo