etro embraces allegories | milan fashion week men’s ss24
Cesare Ripa’s Iconologia was intertwined through the Etro Men’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection, Etroallegories, consisting of casual suiting, Mediterranean-esque prints, and summer knits. Designer and creative director Marco De Vincenzo discovered a copy of the book—composed of virtues, vices, passions, arts, and sciences represented by allegories—in his hometown and began to connect it to contemporary mediums. Knowing that the themes within the book, although quite dated, were still relevant today, De Vincenzo took it upon himself to breathe new life into Iconologia through fashion.
The collection, which debuted on Sunday at Milan Fashion Week, featured a subdued colour scheme of soft grey, salmon pink, and sage green, complemented by Mediterranean-inspired prints. Subtly on the collar and hem of bomber jackets and (much) more noticeably covering floor-length jackets and silky button-up shirts, the patterns closely resembled painted tiles. Among these prints is where allegorical images of Augurio Buono, Bellezza, Eternità, Lussuria, and Tenacità revealed themselves.
The prints were expertly partnered with boxy and oversized silhouettes that felt lightweight and casual, but put-together. Roomy blazers, waistcoats, and wide-leg trousers in black, navy, and grey were paired with printed shirts, while suits covered in stripes and diamonds were coupled with knitted tanks. Free-flowing trench coats, three-quarter-length trousers, and knitted pullovers added additional silhouettes to the collection.
Complementing almost every outfit was a beautifully crafted bag. Whether it be a printed crossbody, studded mini, or capacious shoulder bag, De Vincenzo found a way to make them shine against the grandeur of the clothing. Equally competing for the spotlight were platform wallabees and square-toed doll shoes.
Nonetheless, the stars of the show were undoubtedly the sunglasses. Debuting their first two styles of sunglasses in partnership with Safilo during the show, Etro wowed spectators with oversized frames in deep burgundy and black. Sat on geometric temples with the signature Etro pegasus emblem in metal, the shades are the perfect amalgamation of the brand’s style and values. The Spring/Summer 2024 Eyewear collection is set to be launched in January 2024, with the first drop of selected styles entering Etro boutiques in November 2023.
While Iconologia and fashion seem to have nothing in common, De Vincenzo makes connections between choosing an outfit and allegories, demonstrating that dressing yourself helps image-making and communication. With that being said, he encourages viewers to explore past and present allegories, all through a stellar collection that will no doubt be remembered.
Keo Benhart knows his angles in this Schön! editorial captured by photographer Jordi Perez with fashion by Trevor McMullan who dresses Benhart in looks by ZIMMERLI, Raggedy Threads, Gabriela Hearst and others.
gilet, scarf + wristband. Stylist’s Own
t-shirt. Marni
trousers. Dries Van Noten
gilet, scarf + wristband. Stylist’s Own
t-shirt. Marni
trousers. Dries Van Noten
Credits
Can you hear those faint whispers? In this Schön! editorial, captured by Alessia Barontini, art director and stylist Luca Pirri dresses Omer Brams in looks by Marni, Gucci, Romeo Gigli and others, with hair and make up by Federica Castiglioni.
jacket + hat. Stylist’s Own
knit. Comme des Garçons
trousers. Balenciaga
opposite
gilet. Maison Margiela x H&M
shirt. Stylist’s Own
glasses. Gucci
jacket + hat. Stylist’s Own
knit. Comme des Garçons
trousers. Balenciaga
opposite
gilet. Maison Margiela x H&M
shirt. Stylist’s Own
glasses. Gucci
“This look features emerging designers from Studio Paillette, a showroom that offers clothing rentals, which I love because it’s a sustainable alternative to constantly buying new pieces. It was such a cool way to support slow-fashion while discovering young designers during a busy fashion week.”
“This look features emerging designers from Studio Paillette, a showroom that offers clothing rentals, which I love because it’s a sustainable alternative to constantly buying new pieces. It was such a cool way to support slow-fashion while discovering young designers during a busy fashion week.”
Credits
From navigating New York’s icy streets to soaking in the glamour of Parisian couture, Ellie Thumann’s Fashion Month was a whirlwind of runway moments, late-night fittings, and, of course, plenty of cappuccinos. The American model and digital creator first made waves on YouTube — where her channel now boasts over 2.2 million subscribers — before landing campaigns with brands like Marc Jacobs and Coach. Alongside her rise in the industry, she also uses her platform to candidly discuss her journey with anxiety and PCOS, offering a refreshingly honest perspective while balancing the demands of the fashion world. This season, she took on back-to-back shows across New York, Milan, and Paris, embracing every fashion-filled moment along the way. After weeks of non-stop action, Schön! caught up with Thumann in a photoshoot with Carl Niklas, where she broke down her Fashion Month looks and reflected on the season’s highlights.
Fashion Month can be non-stop — how do you keep your energy up with so many shows and events back-to-back?
I think it’s important to take the downtime when you’re not in all the chaos of the glitz and glamour to really sleep well — and of course, the honest answer is a bunch of cappuccinos!
What’s your go-to pre-show routine? Any must-haves in your bag to survive the day?
Band-Aids are a must-have, considering all the different heels and shoe changes. My pre-show routine is pretty simple: a good meal, caffeine, and then I’m ready to go.
You’ve been to so many events this season — any fun or unexpected behind-the-scenes moments that stood out?
Honestly, some of the best moments happen in between the shows. There have been some really fun Uber rides and a lot of amazing food stops along the way!
Looking back at all your outfits from Fashion Month, do you have a favourite look?
I think my Roberto Cavalli outfit made me feel like a princess — it was definitely my favourite. But I was really lucky to wear so many incredible looks.
“During fashion week, I was grateful to partner with Vestiaire Collective, which generously loaned me some incredible pieces. Their platform is a perfect example of how sustainability and high fashion can go hand in hand.”
“During fashion week, I was grateful to partner with Vestiaire Collective, which generously loaned me some incredible pieces. Their platform is a perfect example of how sustainability and high fashion can go hand in hand.”
Credits
Let’s start with New York — what was the experience like for you, and which show stood out the most?
Michael Kors was my favourite. It’s always been a dream of mine to attend, and this was my second time! The designs were simple yet sophisticated, and I loved the little details, like the double belts. The only challenge? Navigating everything with snow on the ground — heels and ice do not mix!
Milan had some incredible collections this season. Which show surprised you the most?
Bally really caught me off guard! The looks were so unique, and I loved the different makeup styles — some models were completely covered in silver glitter, which I hadn’t seen from them before.
We met at the Ferrari show — such a cool setting! What did you think of the collection, and how did you decide on your look for the night?
Ferrari is always one of my favourite shows. They’ve entered the fashion space in such a unique way, and the fur pieces this season were so clean and cool.
You also attended Roberto Cavalli and Tod’s. Were there any standout moments or favourite looks?
Tod’s was surreal — Carla Bruni greeting guests? Iconic. And at Cavalli, the fur coats stood out, but the black sand on the runway was something I’d never seen before. The whole Pompeii theme was stunning.
“This Isabel Marant coat from Studio Paillette was a standout piece for me, especially when paired with classic Ray-Bans. I’m also looking forward to seeing what A$AP Rocky brings to the table as creative director — his influence in fashion is always exciting to watch.”
“This Isabel Marant coat from Studio Paillette was a standout piece for me, especially when paired with classic Ray-Bans. I’m also looking forward to seeing what A$AP Rocky brings to the table as creative director — his influence in fashion is always exciting to watch.”
Credits
Paris has a totally different energy from the other cities. What surprised you most this season? Did anything about OFF-WHITE’s AW25 collection stand out to you?
The accessories at OFF-WHITE were amazing — so many statement earrings and cool shapes. It felt like a fresh take for the brand.
Elie Saab and Georges Hobeika always bring that dreamy, couture magic. How did it feel seeing those pieces up close?
It’s so special seeing them in person. The textures, the details — you can’t fully appreciate them through photos. And the scenography at those shows is always breathtaking.
After so many shows, what’s the first thing you do to unwind at the end of the day?
First thing? Take off my makeup, put on something comfy, and then nap.
Cesare Ripa’s Iconologia was intertwined through the Etro Men’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection, Etroallegories, consisting of casual suiting, Mediterranean-esque prints, and summer knits. Designer and creative director Marco De Vincenzo discovered a copy of the book—composed of virtues, vices, passions, arts, and sciences represented by allegories—in his hometown and began to connect it to contemporary mediums. Knowing that the themes within the book, although quite dated, were still relevant today, De Vincenzo took it upon himself to breathe new life into Iconologia through fashion.
