dries van noten aw26 | when dawn breaks

Julian Klausner is clearly in his feels for his second outing at Dries Van Noten, and understandably so. “I wanted to praise the joy of new beginnings,” he wrote in the show notes, “the unfolding of possibilities; the naivety and the honesty of the first experiments with self out of the comfort zone.” Six months on from his June beach presentation, where graduates celebrated at dawn, this collection imagined them leaving home – packing bags, catching trains with spirits full of promise.

Titled ‘Yo Ga Aketara’ or ‘When Dawn Breaks,’ the Autumn/Winter 26 collection is a beautifully messy tribute to that specific coming-of-age era; of the bravery it takes to step out of your comfort zone, carrying nothing but a suitcase full of friendly clothes and a few inherited trinkets. The 1969 track by Maki Asakawa also set the pace, playing throughout the show. 

 

You have the tailored strictness of old-school uniforms clashing against oversized fatherly coats and mother’s blurred florals that look like they were snapped on a vintage Polaroid. The proportions are delightfully unhinged too, playing with a “too tight, too big, a bit short” energy that perfectly captures the awkwardness of growing up.

Knitwear is the real MVP of this collection, appearing in every possible form from chunky FairIsle patterns to nostalgic argyles and stripes. It is all rendered in an ‘intuitive impasto’ of textures that stays true to the Dries legacy, using a palette of moody greys and blues that gets a sudden, sugary jolt from ‘Fruitella pastels.’

Klausner approaches styling here in a way that doesn’t feel planned, specifically with what he calls “knotting as a gesture with intention.” Whether it is a scarf tightened for warmth or a necktie left loose and rebellious, it feels like a genuine reflection of a character in flux.

The accessories really drive the wanderer narrative home. Models were adventuring on the go in flat sneakers and hi-top boxing shoes, hauling oversized laundry bags and school satchels that looked heavy with secrets. Closely, you could spot patchwork knit hats, attentive/nerdy eyeglasses and inherited trinkets, like fishing lure pins and semi‑precious lucky charms, which gave a sense of personal mythology. As Klausner says, it is all about the “unfolding of possibilities.” 

Discover the collection here.

photography. courtesy of GoRunway
words. Gennaro Costanzo