Making a triumphant return to the runway, Lanvin unveiled its much-anticipated coed collection for the autumn/winter 2025 season during Paris Fashion Week. This momentous occasion marked the inaugural presentation by the new artistic director, Peter Copping, whose creative acumen imbued the collection with an air of both sophistication and nostalgia. Paying homage to the French fashion house’s founder, Jeanne Lanvin, the collection is a melange of her signature style and a hint of modernity.
Updated archival styles – embroidery reworked onto t-shirts and jumpers and classic silhouettes afforded more volume – aren’t the only way the collection highlights the brand’s past. The Lanvin emblem, designed by Paul Iribe in 1923, is represented through a diverse cast of models, new emblems draw inspiration from the interiors of Jeanne Lanvin’s home, and the house’s signature blue – originally influenced by the 15th-century frescoes of Fra Angelico – has also evolved. And, if you look closely, you can spot the shapes of J’s and L’s integrated into the designs of garments, accessories, handbags, and heels.
Structured coats, trenches, and blazers are styled alongside fluid satin midi skirts and turtleneck tops; velvet chevron-printed flowy and body-hugging pleated dresses, both flowy and body-hugging, are delicately ruched to create shape; and diamante tassels and sequins embellished jumpers, dresses, and capes. The final look, though, still manages to steal the show. Floating ethereally down the runway, the gold drop-waist midi dress with an off-the-shoulder bodice reflects the light magically, embodying Lanvin’s couture sensibility and individuality.
Copping’s debut collection underscored the illustrious legacy of Jeanne Lanvin, effortlessly fusing his design ethos with elements that resonate with the brand’s storied heritage, resulting in a presentation that was both unexplored and balanced.
Discover the collection here.
photography. Lanvin
words. Amber Louise