When Jonathan Anderson made his debut at Dior earlier this year, his mission to dismantle a heritage house that has religiously guarded its codes was never clearer. For Pre-Autumn 2026, the British Designer of the Year deepens this recoding, pivoting from the conceptual armour of his first outing toward a wardrobe built for an expansive cast of characters. By taking the Maison’s sacred, often rigid motifs and quite literally crushing them with a sense of normality, Anderson has arrived at a decisive silhouette that feels remarkably alive.
The focal point remains the Bar jacket, but it has been stripped of its mid-century rigidity. Anderson isn’t interested in the waist-nipping ghost of 1947. Instead, he treats the Bar jacket as a shape-shifter: sometimes shrunken and soft, other times dramatically enlarged into an enveloping coat that carries the weight of a security blanket.

There’s a clever interplay between the Dior we’ve grown accustomed to and Anderson’s more relaxed vision, most notably in the wide silk denim trousers. Cut with the volume of a pleated skirt but rendered in ultra-lightweight silk denim, they possess a liquid-like drape that makes a utilitarian staple feel like pure couture.
The ‘sideways explosions’ on the sculptural gowns provide the collection’s most ‘Anderson’ moments. Architectural silhouettes appear serene from one angle before erupting into unexpected volumes at the hip or shoulder. It’s a virtuoso display of the Dior atelier’s prowess, filtered through a chromatic sensibility of muted, tonal greys and navies. Even the 1948-inspired deconstructed Arizona trapeze coats, secured with elongated hat pins, feel like a rebellion against traditional luxury.

Accessories are where the idea of ‘character dressing’ truly takes hold. The new Dior Cigale, with its bow-front and sculpted, curved opening that leaves the interior partially exposed, is already the season’s most talked-about It bag. It’s joined by the slouchy Dior Crunchy and the structured Dior Médaillon, offering a range of attitudes for the wearer to inhabit.
Whether paired with sensible loafers or open-toed pumps, the collection proposes style as a swift, personal discourse. By mixing these high-couture elements with such everyday pieces, Anderson is proving that Dior can be a highly versatile, slightly rebellious language for the modern woman.
photography. courtesy of Peter Joseph Smith
words. Gennaro Costanzo




































































































