Diesel’s Autumn/Winter 2025 show was nothing short of an audacious celebration of chaos, rebellion, and creative freedom. Held within what can only be described as the world’s largest graffiti installation, the runway became a living, breathing canvas. Over three kilometres of fabric, transformed by the hands of 7,000 graffiti artists from across eight countries, set the stage for a collection that is elevated yet disrupted, refined yet raw.
Creative Director Glenn Martens encapsulated the spirit of the show succinctly: “I love that thousands of people around the world have worked together to create the set design. We gave the global street art collective complete creative freedom – they expressed themselves each in their own way, on a project that’s taken months to achieve. This is the true democracy of Diesel.” His words resonated as the garments made their debut amid a riot of colour and texture — a striking juxtaposition of meticulous tailoring and deliberate destruction.
The language of Diesel was on full display: denim, utility, pop, and artisanal influences exploded and intermingled on the catwalk. Severely tailored pieces appeared deconstructed, corrupted, and even slashed, challenging conventional aesthetics. Models — equipped with the now familiar darkened/brightened contact lenses — paraded in collarless jackets fashioned in bouclé, paired with denim peplums that evoked the very top of distressed jeans, while jagged, raw-cut men’s tailoring in bonded neoprene brought an industrial edge to the collection. Women’s designs were equally bold, with bouclé basques worn over skinny jeans enhanced by an attached denim peplum, merging traditional elegance with a distinctly contemporary twist.
A recurring motif throughout the show was the concept of the “impossibly low-cut.” Garments — from skirts to jeans — were designed with exaggerated, nearly unattainable proportions. Some pieces featured stretch waistbands that both harmonised and clashed with the overall silhouette, creating a tension that was as alluring as it was provocative. Houndstooth jacquards appeared as if layered and then purposefully destroyed, an effect mirrored in the cut of certain garments, like a bandeau top paired with a basque over pants.
Accessories played a pivotal role in conveying the show’s ethos. The Double D bag, rendered in refined bouclé, struck a balance between ladylike elegance and the brand’s inherent streetwise edge. Two unisex bags made their debut: the Flag-D slouchy bag, complete with a wide logo strap in faux pony, and the oval-shaped Load-D, secured by Diesel’s iconic D embellishments. Footwear, too, spoke volumes. Men’s ankle boots with ultra-chunky soles, distressed houndstooth slippers, and bouclé kitten heel boots — each element meticulously detailed with the Diesel D — challenged traditional norms of shoe design.
Innovative materials were another cornerstone of the collection. Diesel’s experimentation extended to eyewear and timepieces, with the debut of the Liquifie-D family of glasses featuring sinuous, chunky moulding and fluid temples.
Perhaps the most striking element of the show was the Street Art Capsule. In a bold move to merge art and fashion, Diesel sent select pieces to a roster of international graffiti artists — Roy XR Chen (China), Ryota Daimon (Japan), Farai Engelbrecht (South Africa), Phree Hester (USA), Brianna Toomer (France), and Red Longo (Italy). These artists, given carte blanche, transformed the garments with their own distinct styles.
Diesel has once again dared to disrupt, to challenge, and to redefine the boundaries of contemporary streetwear. It is a call to embrace imperfection, to find beauty in the broken, and to celebrate the untamed spirit of rebellion.
Discover the collection here.
photography. Filippo Fior
words. Gennaro Costanzo
Fresh off their collaboration on Handlebars, 
