full look. EVW by Estelle V Wiele
shoes. Karl Lagerfeld
rings. Chrome Hearts
For designer Estelle V Wiele, everything is about making women feel unapologetically — and unabashedly — themselves. Wiele’s namesake brand EVW embodies this spirit; pulling together innovative and luxury facets, crafting garments that are equal parts compelling and unique. Wiele’s aim is to solely create garments that focus solely on the best craftsmanship without compromising on quality, responsibility, and creative expression.
EVW’s latest collection Dichotomy explores the place that exists within the contrast; two things that seem at odds with one another or seen as entirely different, but still seamlessly work together. As a nod to the couture construction techniques of the 1950s, Wiele’s Dichotomy uses materials like denim to create swooping silhouettes and adorning each piece with meticulous attention to detail. In particular, Wiele uses hand-sewn finishes, boned bustiers, and intricate embroidery to help embrace “the beauty of the dark as well as the classic.”
Wiele speaks to Schön! about her brand EVW, her design inspirations and processes, and more.
What is the ethos behind EVW?
The ethos driving EVW is to emerge as a contemporary luxury house, akin to Maisons like Dior, Louis, Chanel etc., but with a more modern interpretation and a greater emphasis on ethical production, fabric sourcing and mindful consumption. While also upholding the techniques and superior finishes of couture and luxury garments.
EVW ensures that garments are made ethically and pride yourself on innovation and being responsible for your output — why is that so important to you as a designer?
Although I am deeply passionate about fashion, I recognise that many industries have significant downsides and unfortunately the fashion industry is one of those. I am largely motivated by my growing awareness of the negative impacts of fast fashion on everyone along the production, supply and consumption chain. I don’t want to be a brand that contributes to that but rather strives to foster a more sustainable approach and mindset towards fashion. My brand prioritises creativity and long-lasting quality garments over quick production and trend-driven design. My focus is on crafting high-quality, timeless pieces with character that can withstand the test of time and remain in your closet for years to come.
Currently, I use deadstock fabrics, which are leftovers from larger companies’ orders, to ensure I am not contributing to fabric production waste. Moreover, I optimise my pattern-cutting process to avoid excess waste and repurpose all my scraps to create new fabrics. In the future, my dream is to incorporate advanced tech fabrics such as spider silk or mushroom leather, pushing boundaries in the space where water and chemical waste, as well as animal harm, especially as I am vegetarian, is minimised.
full look. EVW by Estelle V Wiele
rings. Chrome Hearts
opposite
full look. EVW by Estelle V Wiele
shoes. Karl Lagerfeld
rings. Chrome Hearts
According to your Instagram, you studied at Parsons in NYC. What did you find most compelling about your time there that you’ll take with you as you craft your own brand?
Studying at Parsons has taught me so many things and has allowed me to concentrate on my passion and given me the time and space to improve my skills in a free creative environment. However, what I value the most and will take with me are the people I met. Although I learned a great deal from some professors, it is my friends who have had the greatest impact on me. We have created an incredible supportive creative community. One of my friends even joked that we never even sew in a zipper without consulting each other’s opinions first. It is amazing to evolve together and support each other’s projects, even though we have different aesthetics and market niches. I was really relieved that the environment wasn’t highly competitive in a negative way.
Are there specific artists or craftsmen that have influenced your work?
Over the years, I have been exposed to the work of countless designers, whether through museum visits, media, or retail stores, and their influence has undoubtedly left an imprint on my creative process. Nonetheless, I have recently focused my attention on the designs of Cristobal Balenciaga, specifically from the 1950s, with a particular emphasis on his interior finishes and tailoring techniques. His innovative approach to construction and finishing has been highly influential in my latest collection and I have adopted his techniques into my work. Apart from Cristobal, there are several designers whom I admire for varying reasons. These include Kim Jones, Riccardo Tisci, Vivienne Westwood, Simon Porte Jacquemus, as well as John Galliano, among others.
full look. EVW by Estelle V Wiele
shoes. Miu Miu
rings. Chrome Hearts
left to right
full look. Estelle V Wiele
shoes. Miu Miu
rings. Chrome Hearts
full look. Estelle V Wiele
shoes. Karl Lagerfeld
rings. Chrome Hearts
opposite
full look. EVW by Estelle V Wiele
shoes. Karl Lagerfeld
rings. Chrome Hearts
The latest EVW collection is called ‘Dichotomy,’ a word that describes two clashing things against one another. What was it about the word and the collection that made you want to name it that?
Typically, designers name their collections after researching and before designing, but I prefer to name my collection when it is finished. By doing this, I can name the collection to reflect the results rather than letting the name influence the results. For this collection, I am referring to the dichotomies between fabrics and silhouettes. I have utilized stereotypically unconventional fabrics in a couture way. Such as, black twill denim and wax-coated denim, that I have hand-distressed to create a worn appearance. In contrast, I have paired these denims with silk organza or silk peau d’ange, which are more commonly associated with couture houses.
In terms of the silhouette, I have paired very structured elements using seamlines, grid-like embroidery, and tailoring techniques to create geometric shapes that then contrast with curved hems, soft draped gathers or long flowing fabrics. By combining such contrasts, “dichotomies”, I have developed a collection that reflects a modern and edgy interpretation of couture garments.
This collection in particular features you leaning back to more traditional forms of crafting couture, like hand-sewn finishes and intricate embroidery. What was it about these techniques that inspired or influenced the collection and your creative vision as a designer?
I have always felt strongly that honouring craftsmanship and skill is paramount in creative fields. Truly mastering a technique takes years of dedication, practice and patience, and I have always deeply admired and aspired to achieve such mastery. This is why I dedicated myself to studying Cristobal Balenciaga’s techniques, and have been fortunate enough to have had the opportunity to study some of his garments at museum archives.
Moreover, the focus required for hand sewing or embroidering allows me to enter a deep zone of productivity where I lose track of time and work for hours on end, which I truly enjoy.
full look. EVW by Estelle V Wiele
Was there anything different that you did while designing this collection compared to the previous one?
Definitely, each collection has its own intention. Although I follow similar steps to get started, it always ends up taking me in a new direction. For instance, my previous collection was inspired by my learning experience with CLO3D, a program increasingly used in the industry to digitally create garments. Consequently, I wanted to create a versatile mix-and-match capsule collection with everyday wear, which was a fun experience. However, since I prefer working with my hands, I missed out on incorporating finer finishing details. However, I did actually embroider a couple of swatches, scanned them, and integrated them into CLO! In contrast, this collection is focused on individual statement looks, primarily for evening wear. I also had more time to experiment, research, and sketch in this collection, leading to more refined and purposeful design decisions.
Is there a particular garment in the collection that you have an affinity for? Why?
I usually have a favourite piece from each collection, but this time I paid such close attention to every garment that each time I think I have a favourite, I notice a detail in another and am back to square one. The embroidery in the cape took over 3 weeks, so I am incredibly proud of that, but the mini-dress with the “balloon” gathers underneath has so many interior layers where I adopted the finishes I studied in the archives, so I am equally proud of that one. However, the black denim distressed mini dress with the organza skirt perfectly reflects my personal style. Choosing just one favourite this time is too difficult!
full look. EVW by Estelle V Wiele
rings. Chrome Hearts
opposite
full look. EVW by Estelle V Wiele
full look. EVW by Estelle V Wiele
shoes. Karl Lagerfeld
opposite
full look. EVW by Estelle V Wiele
shoes. Karl Lagerfeld
rings. Chrome Hearts
With this collection, can you tell us about specific creative design approaches or aesthetics you wanted to explore when first designing the garments?
In previous collections I had experimented with different aesthetics, occasions and prompts with the intention of learning and playing. However, for this collection, my focus was on embodying the essence of my brand – elegance with an edge. I aimed to achieve beautiful constructions, sleek silhouettes with innovative fabrications and intricate details while also feeling powerful, strong and modern.
The EVW label is described as for the women who are unapologetically themselves, embrace their individuality and honour craftsmanship. When you picture the EVW wearer, what do you envision them thinking or feeling while wearing your clothing?
I want the women who wear my clothing to feel empowered, sexy and beautiful but also comfortable because they truly feel themselves in my garments. In essence, I aspire for them to feel capable of achieving anything they desire with certainty.
Lastly, how do you see the EVW label growing and evolving in the future?
I envision and hope for the EVW label to grow significantly. Despite being in the early stages, I have received an abundance of positive feedback from friends, family and followers and am so grateful for the support. It is crucial to me that my work resonates with people and that they can fall in love with the EVW world I am creating. My ultimate aspiration is to establish EVW as a luxury maison that is recognized as the forefront of couture and fashion because it both honours its past and respects the future.
full look. EVW by Estelle V Wiele
Dichotomy by EVW and other RTW garments are now available for custom order at EstelleVWiele.com.
photography. Siqi Qin
fashion design. Estelle V Wiele
models. Lara Cosima von Donnersmarck + Samantha Vocatura
make up. Marisa Reif
video. Max Kavanagh
