photography. Burberry
Draped in fabrics depicting a picturesque landscape painting of the countryside, the hallowed confines of the Tate Britain were exquisitely framed – the intricate details adding depth to the buzzing atmosphere, just awaiting the first glimpse of creative director Daniel Lee’s winter 2025 Burberry collection. The now-signature Burberry blue carpeted the runway, with sofas and armchairs cloaked in frescos hosting the likes of Brooklyn and Nicola Pletz Beckham, Damian Lewis, Orlando Bloom, and far too many more stars to mention.
In the show notes, Lee said of his inspirations: “Think of them as weekend escapees. It’s that great Friday night exodus from London to the countryside for long rainy walks and to disconnect in the great outdoors. It’s day-trips to grand stately homes.”
This idea of the countryside – specifically the stately homes surrounded by plush greenery and rolling hillsides – weaved its way throughout the collection, perfectly merging with Burberry’s rich history and iconic codes. Looking at the interiors of these sumptuous homes, Lee took inspiration from the furniture, tapestries, hand-painted wallpaper, and carpets. Flocked wallpaper became velvet brocade suits, flowy maxi dresses with ruffled collars, and heavy-weight trench coats belted at the waist.
Right out of the gate, attendees could sense the breath of fresh countryside air infused within the collection. The first look – consisting of a tapestry brown boxy wool jacket and matching scarf, muted moss green jodhpurs, and thigh-high embossed leather riding boots – was an obvious nod to equestrianism. Other pieces, like shawl lapel robes, camouflage jumpers, and silk pyjama shirts and trousers flew under the radar on their own but ingrained in the rest of the collection, heightened Lee’s influences. Savile Row-inspired tailoring pulled focus, with coats and jackets cut from birdseye wool and corduroy bringing an air of seriousness to some of the more Saltburn-coded laid-back styles.
Chunky oversized scarves – more like warm blankets in weight and size – were draped around the neck over matching jackets of varying lengths, but also contrastingly paired with a body-hugging long-sleeve sequined maxi dress. Signature Burberry styles received a contemporary reinterpretation – think classic trench coats made in embossed leather, heirloom pieces in patchwork shearling and jacquard weaves, and capes with trench elements (reintroduced from the archives) in knit and shearling.
Equestrian influences were apparent in the newly introduced B Bracelet bag – with its saddle shape, curved top handle, hardware reminiscent of bridle reins, and a gold horse clip – while returning styles were ever-present in intarsia and Burberry Check.
As Lee continues to reintroduce archival pieces – and redefine them in a contemporary setting – his collections are becoming ever more rooted in the British heritage of the brand. And, with this collection in particular, it feels as though Lee is really coming into his own at Burberry.
Discover the collection here.
photography. Burberry
words. Amber Louise
