bold themes | berlin fashion week ss24 roundup

image. Maxine Stiller

Berlin Fashion Week (BFW) is known for hosting an array of talented designers, each with their own individual image and message, and this season was no different. Over the course of four days—July 10 to 13—up-and-coming brands presented sublime collections emphasising bold themes and meaningful messages. Their distinctive silhouettes, commitment to circular fashion, and unconventional tailoring made Clara Colette Miramon, Marke, Melisa Minca, Namilia, and ODEEH catch spectators’ eyes.

Clara Colette Miramon’s latest collection is the epitome of coquette fashion, with bows and braids scattered everywhere. Models even braided each other’s long ponytail extensions as a part of the brand’s first BFW presentation held at Molt Berlin, an artist-run space. Garments highlighted lace-up detailing, distressing, and cut-outs alongside a soft colour palette. The fabrics featured were juxtaposed perfectly, with corsets designed in denim and heavy cotton and ruffle booty shorts sewn in light materials. Puffer bags and shoes, and lace knee socks completed each look.

Expert tailoring is a huge part of Marke’s brand, and their SS24 collection titled ‘Hide and Seek’ is no exception. Denim jackets, bucket hats, and trousers boasted contrast stitching, showing off the craftsmanship and adding a distinctive element. The men’s and womenswear pieces were designed in navy, army green, and cream, allowing consumers to mix and match styles and add to their capsule wardrobe. Classic rain jackets take up a large part of the collection, with large pockets, stitching, and tie-up detailing. Large beaded necklaces in white resemble fishing net floats, adding a nautical feel to the collection. 

Reconstructed workwear takes hold of Melisa Minca’s latest collection. The Berlin-based ethical fashion label is known for upcycling and reworking existing fashion, helping keep fashion circular. The brand’s latest collection, titled ‘In Recovery,’ explores breaking free from unethical fashion. Casual suiting and businesswear are prevalent in tops, trousers, skirts, and more made from suit scraps. Bows taken from underwear find their way onto bras, button-up shirts become skirts, and suspenders are woven and sewn into tops. Different phrases and slogans were printed on suits and dresses, nodding to the theme of the collection. Continuing with the bow motif, the brand collaborated with Merrfer—another upcycling label—designing heels and accessories adorned with bows.

Namilia challenges sexist assumptions in their newest collection titled ‘In loving memory of my sugar daddy.’ Leaning into chauvinistic stereotypes and using them to its advantage, the brand celebrates using hyper-femininity to one’s advantage. Models wore lingerie-inspired silhouettes, including corsets, garters, and stockings. Dresses, skirts, and tops were designed to resemble Hermès’ famous Birkin bag, featured in hot pink, red, and black faux crocodile skin and pink and silver diamantés. The cross symbolism and black veils serve as a nod to the collection’s overarching theme.

ODEEH constantly plays with silhouettes to produce elegant and high-quality garments. Their latest SS24 collection does the same, combining soft layered looks with bold prints and unique shapes. Inspired by men’s shirts, designers Otto Drögsler and Jörg Ehrlich incorporated an androgynous feel within their pieces. Contrasting collars, oversized shirts, and asymmetrical closures add individualism to classic garments. The DADA movement and surrealism inspired the prints—featured on dresses, shirts, and shorts—as well as classic stripes. The glasses showcased in the show are a part of ODEEH’s collaboration with Neubau Eyewear which launched in April. 

Staying true to its values and image, each brand presented at BFW left a lasting impression—one that establishes excitement for the future of fashion.

words. Amber Louise
images. Maxine Stiller + Stefan Knauer/Getty Images for Nowadays (ODEEH) 

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