starry night | emporio armani fw24

photography. Stefano Guindani

Emporio Armani’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection was a riveting representation of the beauty and complexity of nature. Creative director Giorgio Armani dubbed the collection, titled Night Glow, a “tribute to the night sky,” revealing a deep colour palette offset with dazzling metallics, embroidered stars and moons, and rhinestones. Embracing these elements, the Armani girl became an everlasting symbol of freedom this season. 

The first look, a faux fur jacket that faded from black to grey to red – resembling the tail end of a vibrant sunset – tapered grey trousers, burgundy patent boots, and black beret, set the scene for the show. Models strolled around the runway with bright smiles, which was strange to see in a fashion setting – especially on a catwalk in Milan. Deep grey wool suits were spruced up with sheer grey polka-dot blouses, navy three-piece pinstripe suits screamed quiet luxury, and flouncy black skirts complemented boxy zip-ups with open white button-ups peeking out. 

Hence the collection’s name, the colour palette consisted of crisp black alongside cool-toned grey, navy, and deep mauve. The cherry red from the first look was transferred onto tailored grey blazers with abstract prints and an asymmetrical jacket with a faux fur-lined collar. The reds dissipated and in their absence, cobalt blue suits briefly commanded the runway before fading into a pale blue splashed on button-up shirts, printed skirts, and sheer bomber jackets. Armani also played with jade, deep greens, and ultra-violet, weaving several monochrome black looks in between each colour shift.

Capacious quilted leather totes, sparky fringe ornamented clutches, and velvet shoulder bags were standouts in the collection, representing Armani’s inspirations all on their own. Chunky beaded opera necklaces and bejewelled neck scarves took after stars while maxi-flowers pinned to lapels and oversized blue and red earrings nodded to nature in the daytime. 

If the outfit wasn’t made interesting by colour, it took on an array of textures – think shiny cire, matte and shiny wools, textured jacquards, and multi-coloured faux fur. Velvet suiting dominated the beginning and end of the show, but crystal embellished sheer jackets, puffy bell skirts with light blue and pink abstract prints, and vibrant striped outfits – which looked like optical illusions as they traipsed down the runway – brought a lighter feel to the middle of the collection. 

Towards the end of the show, the starry night truly came to fruition. Transitioning into an all-black colour palette once more, models were decked out in velvet maxi dresses, tulle floor-length skirts with star embroidery, and sequined tracksuits.

After a brief pause, in which the lights dimmed, the runway was enveloped in snow, with models appearing one after the other – some arm-in-arm – holding umbrellas over their heads. The last 16 looks consisted of lush evening gowns and crystal and mirror-bedecked sheer tops. Two matching moon-embroidered velvet suits closed the show, complemented by black kitten-heeled boots, as well as matching neck scarves and berets. 

All-in-all, Armani captured the essence of nature and translated it into a collection filled with elegant suiting, sumptuous embroidery, and bold pops of colour.

words. Amber Louise
photography. Stefano Guidani + Emporio Armani

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