Chanel’s Spring-Summer 2025 Ready-to-Wear collection felt like a breath of fresh air — and not just because it was set under the newly renamed Grand Palais Gabrielle Chanel. This homecoming for the House was nothing short of spectacular, with its show taking place beneath the iconic glass roof of the Nave, which was transformed into a mesmerising aviary of light and flight. The stage was set with an enormous birdcage, a nod to the famous birdcage gifted to Gabrielle Chanel by one of her seamstresses.
The collection itself echoed this sense of liberation. A ballet of sheer elegance, the models seemed to glide down the runway in chiffon capes, slit skirts, and shirt dresses so delicately embroidered they appeared to float on air. There were trench coats printed with multicoloured feathers that fluttered with each step, and wide-cut trousers that moved with a soft, fluid grace. Even the jeans, embellished with sequins and fringe, somehow exuded a carefree energy.
This wasn’t just about pretty clothes, though. There was a powerful message of freedom threaded throughout. Chanel paid tribute to women who, like Gabrielle herself, broke free from societal constraints. References to icons like Colette, the garçonne movement of the 1920s, and the trailblazing aviatrixes felt poignant. The collection embraced boldness, whether through Peter Pan-collared aviator jackets, flight suits in black and white, or tailored suits that exuded authority and style in equal measure.
The house codes we all know and love — tweed, jersey, the classic Chanel suit, and, of course, the little black dress — were reimagined for 2025, with playful touches and bright splashes of colour. The pieces mirrored the ever-changing hues of the sky, moving from soft pastel knits to shimmering platform shoes that seemed to catch the light like stars.
This homecoming was made even more spectacular with a breathtaking performance by Riley Keough, who sang from a swing suspended above the runway, her voice filling the Nave as models walked beneath her. It was the perfect touch of whimsy to complement the show’s soaring theme. Ultimately, Chanel’s SS25 collection was an ode to movement, freedom, and the women who dare to fly above the ordinary.
Discover the collection at Chanel.com
photography. Chanel, François Ozon
words. Gennaro Costanzo