
H&M has teamed up with Glenn Martens for its latest guest designer collaboration. The Belgian fashion designer – renowned for his creative direction at Diesel, Y/Project, and Maison Margiela – brings his conceptual and avant-garde flair to H&M’s staple designs.
Delving into the H&M archives as a starting point, Martens infused his distinctive style into the pieces, creating a collection that both celebrates the brand and allows him to experiment with cut, silhouette, and his signature wit. “I’m known to be quite conceptual in my designing process, so I do like to start with something that exists and then try to have a flash of conceptualism on it – and then fuck it up, basically. Turn it around,” Martens said during a press conference. He selected a range of key pieces – ones that the H&M customers have long loved – including t-shirts, checked shirts, bomber jackets, jeans, and even briefs.
The collection poses the question: how much fun can you have with wardrobe staples? And Martens’ answer is clear – you can never have too much. The garments themselves are a love letter to individuality and personal style. Many pieces in the collection are designed to be moulded and shaped to the wearer’s own body, reinforcing a sense of freedom in fashion and dressing. This theme is layered with Martens’ fondness for British humour, reflected in checks, tartans, and a print of a Scottish castle.
Womenswear leans into visual intrigue with trompe-l’oeil prints peppered throughout the collection. Long-sleeve tops are printed with a knitted top from Martens’ archive. Long-line dresses are printed with a checked gown – again drawn from his past designs. A silk skirt is decorated with a kilt. Martens also explores different volumes and silhouettes, all while bringing the customisation into play. Denim features hooks and eyes that allow the wearer to reshape the garments, cargo pants are given extra volume, and classic black coats are adorned with handkerchief hems. Even Marten’s signature striped shirt makes an appearance – this time with a wire in the collar.
The menswear pieces are more focused, paying homage to the techniques that have shaped Martens’ career (and fame). Bomber jackets are designed with a foil inner that moulds to the body. Puffer jackets are redesigned with an oversized silhouette. Workwear trousers are dramatically slouchy. Sportswear appears in a bold checked pattern. And H&M’s well-known 5-pack of briefs gets a Glenn Martens twist, complete with his logo and new colours.
Accessories are where Martens lets loose. The Lava bag uses the same wire and foil techniques, designed in imitation leather and blue denim with branded hardware. Jewellery nods to regal jewels and vintage heirlooms, subverted by being blown up to cartoonish proportions. Silk scarves are printed with vintage necklaces, sunglasses look like two frames in one, and imitation leather belts don’t have holes, designed to wrap and tie around the body. Another of Martens’ signatures – super-high boots – has also been remade for the collaboration. “I’m so excited to see all those little gremlins wearing wired things and big thigh-high boots and really owning this collection and really feeling the fun factor,” he said.
Partnering with H&M gave Martens the chance to further explore into his own design language – blending it with the brand’s identity and accessible price point. He recalls first discovering H&M as a teen, and the excitement of finding style that was affordable. “I was a teenager in the ‘90s and H&M landed in my hometown, Bruges, and it was like, for the first time, we actually had cool clothes at accessible price points. It was amazing. It was one of the most groundbreaking moments, I think, for young adults, that the clothes were good and cool,” Martens shared. Now, he’s the one designing them.
photography. Courtesy of H&M
words. Amber Louise

























































