charles jeffrey loverboy | no wave couture

From the catacombs of London’s Somerset House, Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY has never been a brand that colours within the lines. Now, the celebrated Scottish designer is taking his radical, club-kid aesthetic – that vivid collision of queer nightlife and Scottish folklore – into an entirely new, formal dimension with ‘The Charles Jeffrey Line,’ or simply, ‘No Wave Couture.’

The name borrows from No Wave, the late ‘70s downtown New York movement that rejected polish and convention in favour of pure, abrasive experimentation. In that same spirit, Jeffrey is using couture as his new canvas, dismantling its strict codes and rebuilding them with a raw, expressive energy.

For a brand rooted in menswear and maximalist, gender-fluid ready-to-wear, this signals both an evolution and a risk: the move into flou – the French term for soft, flowing garment construction. LOVERBOY has long dabbled in bespoke pieces for collaborators like Harry Styles and Tilda Swinton, as seen in the recent The Lore of LOVERBOY exhibition. But this new line treats couture not as a side project, but as an artistic discipline in its own right.

Jeffrey approaches this high art form with a punkish, DIY ethos, “improvising our own rhythm,” as he puts it. It’s a beautifully confrontational stance: couture not for the gilded salon, but for the restless, anti-establishment imagination.

The line’s debut is marked by its first official commission with actress and stylist Zoë Bleu Arquette, named Client 001.  Arquette, the daughter of Rosanna Arquette, is herself a rising cultural figure known for her unconventional, boho-muse style. Her first piece, a custom sea witch ensemble, draws directly from her role as Mina Murray in the forthcoming film ‘Dracula: A Love Tale,’ fusing cinematic fantasy with haute craft. The photos, captured by her friend Harry Carr inside the ornate, historic setting of Napoleon’s apartment in Rome, create a thrilling, maximalist tension in line with Jeffrey’s signature style.

This partnership introduces ‘No Wave Couture’ as a living experiment, featuring all raw edges, expressive structure and improvisational construction. Jeffrey’s vision is clear: couture can be intimate, impulsive and defiantly human.

photography. courtesy of Harry Carr
words. Gennaro Costanzo