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This season, Hermès presents a collection that feels like stepping into a beautifully crafted home — a wardrobe that welcomes, envelopes, and adapts to its wearer with quiet sophistication. Véronique Nichanian’s enduring vision of understated elegance is evident throughout the Men’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection. From sweeping travel coats to jackets inspired by racing silks, the line embodies a harmonious balance of utility and elegance, designed for life in motion.  

The collection draws inspiration from the vibrant silks of jockey attire, infusing traditional tailoring with a spirited energy. Deep browns, dark teals, and vivid reds dominate the palette, bringing warmth to the winter months. Fuzzy mohair coats and plush sheepskin outerwear not only provide comfort but also add a tactile richness that begs to be touched.

Nichanian’s designs are known for their sleek, streamlined silhouettes, and this collection is no exception. Avoiding heavy layering, the pieces emphasise clean lines and a sense of movement. Bold sweaters featuring chevrons and geometric patterns inject a playful yet sophisticated touch, exemplifying Hermès’ ability to innovate while respecting its storied heritage. 

Accessories, always a highlight in Hermès collections, complement the ready-to-wear pieces seamlessly. From silk scarves adorned with equestrian prints to palladium-finish bracelets, each item carries the brand’s ethos of functional luxury. Ankle boots with notched soles add a rugged yet polished finish, ready to stride confidently through the season. 

As for its iconic bags, the standout piece — and likely trendsetter of the year — is the black Haut à Courroies bag. Playful yet undeniably modern and sophisticated, it features a clever “connect-the-dots” shadow motif, mimicking its renowned design elements. Almost like a step-by-step assembly guide, the bag reimagines timelessness with a dash of whimsy, promising to be a coveted classic in the making.

Discover the collection here.

photography. Filippo Fior, Armando Grillo, Bruno Staub
words. Gennaro Costanzo

Kim Jones had a mission with his Dior Men’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection: to redefine what menswear can aspire to be. And he succeeded! Inspired by Christian Dior’s Ligne H collection from Autumn/Winter 1954-55, Jones crafted a wardrobe that transcends time, merging couture-level artistry with contemporary menswear codes. In this seamless, shapeshifting dialogue, masculinity meets femininity.

The show, hosted at the École Militaire, opened with a sense of grandeur that felt quintessentially Dior — clean, architectural lines softened by an almost liquid movement in the fabrics. Lightly blindfolded, the models stepped out in silhouettes that shifted from structured to fluid, with opera coats and belted robes borrowed from the women’s archive making a bold, theatrical statement. The coats were transformative, like a garment morphing into a skirt. The interplay of fitted and flared silhouettes spoke to a quiet confidence: not loud, but utterly commanding.  

Silks and satins dominated the collection in a playful yet artistic take on the chiaroscuro effect — contrasting light and shadow — which added depth and drama to each garment. It’s no surprise to learn that Casanova served as a muse, with his reputation as both a ladies’ man and an extravagant dresser woven throughout. The result was a provocative dance between the masculine and feminine, from bow-topped leather shoes to jewellery that felt equal parts armour and adornment.

Accessories continued this theme of duality. Shearling Dior Roller bags were soft and tactile, contrasting with the sharp masculinity of structured Normandie totes. Similarly, the footwear featured both high-polished boots and satin bow caps, and even the trainers — embroidered with archival patterns — felt like a blend of luxury and rebellion.  

Speaking of embroidery, the Pondichéry look from Dior’s Spring/Summer 1948 haute couture collection was reborn in the final piece: a pink robe that closed the show with such quiet opulence. Its motifs spilt into other pieces, from jewellery to pinstripe-inspired patterns metamorphosed into intricate embellishments. Even the “raindrop” beading, with its meticulous hand placement, elevated simplicity into artistry. 

Despite the nods to the past, nothing felt outdated. Instead, Kim Jones offered a modern perspective, proving that extravagance and simplicity aren’t mutually exclusive.  

Discover the collection here.

photography. Dior
words. Gennaro Costanzo

Colm Dillane’s KidSuper shows have always been more than just fashion — they’re unapologetic celebrations of creativity and storytelling. But this season at Paris Fashion Week, Dillane ventured into the surreal. Teaming up with kinetic artist Daniel Wurtzel, he presented From a Place I Have Never Been at Halle Charlie Parker in La Grande Halle de la Villette, transforming the runway into a performance art spectacle where garments, air, and emotion collided.  

Wurtzel, renowned for his ethereal air sculptures, turned the stage into a mesmerising realm where fabric seemed to float on invisible currents, perfectly mirroring Dillane’s fearless dive into the unknown. The collection’s narrative was all about embracing risk, discovery, and transformation. “I thrive on stepping into uncharted territories,” Dillane shared. “The outcome isn’t always predictable, but that’s where the magic lies.”  

The garments themselves embodied this spirit of metamorphosis. Known for his riotous prints and playful artistry, Dillane this time balanced his trademark exuberance with a refined, introspective edge. Eclectic colours were dialled down into softer palettes; experimental silhouettes took centre stage, including a technical coat that — brace yourself — transforms into a hammock. Yes, a hammock. But somehow, it worked, because with KidSuper, the impossible always feels inevitable.  

As if the air sculptures and transformative clothing weren’t enough, the breathtaking performance by Ekaterina Shelehova added an emotional crescendo to the evening.

Dillane’s knack for collaboration shone brighter than ever. This season, he teamed up with streetwear icon BAPE, marking its first-ever Paris Fashion Week appearance. The collection fused Harajuku streetwear cool with KidSuper’s wild imagination. WILDSIDE Yohji Yamamoto was another standout partnership, combining Dillane’s whimsical irreverence with Yohji’s sharp tailoring.

The capsule balanced artful embroidery with bold graphic prints on everything from gabardine suits to hoodies — bridging the gap between couture-level craftsmanship and streetwear ease. Other collaborations included a hand-crocheted jacket made by Brazilian artisans with PIET and a meticulously crafted coat by HAMCUS that embodies functional art.  

But despite all the theatrics, the collection never lost its heart. It was KidSuper through and through — bold, imaginative, and irresistibly fun — yet this time tinged with introspection. Dillane’s signature hand-painted details and daring proportions met a deeper exploration of what it means to embrace uncertainty.

Discover the collection here.

photography. Matteo Prandoni, BFA
words. Gennaro Costanzo