“The idea is always to start with a tone of voice,” says Stefano Gaudioso Tramonte, General Merchandising Manager and Style Director at Corneliani. “A tone that blends emotion with aesthetics, and also a certain sense of sociality. We didn’t want to do a simple runway show. We wanted to invite people into our home and give them an experience, something they could take with them emotionally.”
For Spring/Summer 2026, Corneliani staged its own kind of urban ritual. On the longest day of the year, the summer solstice, the brand’s courtyard in Via Durini transformed into a sand-dusted runway and mirrored stage — part desert mirage, part Milanese sanctuary. Live music from three genre-defying artists set the rhythm: Devendra Banhart, Keziah Jones and Mattias Mimoun. But the performances were integral to the message and not just a backdrop.
“Last winter, we did something similar with the London School of Ballet,” Tramonte explains. “That was choreography, this was music. Three musicians from completely different cultures and musical styles. But when we styled them, it all came together naturally. That’s the idea — that our clothes can genuinely suit very different personalities.”
The collection, aptly titled Summer Solstice, draws from a layered narrative: ritual, energy, and identity. Its starting point is the image of a “modern metropolitan nomad” — a man in constant motion, navigating a city scorched by summer heat. “It’s not a seaside summer,” Tramonte clarifies. “It’s summer in the city. You might see someone wearing shorts and sandals with a slightly heavier knit. That contrast was important. It’s easy, it’s loose, but it’s also elegant.”
This balance between heritage and modernity was felt in every element. Double-breasted jackets appeared with no collars or lapels; wide trousers ‘swept’ the floor in polished linen. Tramonte describes this tension as the core of Corneliani’s creative process. “You set the overall mood, then the colour palette. But what really brings it to life are the fabrics. That’s the heart of the collection.”
Natural fibres, such as mohair, wool, silk, and linen, are Corneliani’s signature, sourced from Italy’s best mills. But for SS26, the focus was on updating the feel and performance of those classics. “We worked on developing new linen blends that are compact and crisp, almost like linen satin. They hold their shape but stay breathable. They don’t wrinkle as much either. And when you use luminous fibres like mohair or silk, even natural shades like clay or cement take on a summery brightness.”
Much of the collection’s innovation lies in the shirts. “There’s been a shift away from knitwear and polos, but now people want shirts again,” Tramonte says. “But it’s not your dad’s shirt. These are cut differently, worn differently. We played with volumes and necklines. Some are deep V-necks, some have layered bibs or no collar at all. Devendra wore one of those styles on stage. The idea was: you wear a shirt, and you don’t need a jacket. The shirt dresses you.”
Tramonte is honest about the challenges of evolving a brand with deep tailoring roots. “The issue for brands like ours is that people expect a certain classicism. If you do something too simple, too traditional, it’s predictable. But if you go too far, it doesn’t feel like your DNA anymore. You scare off your clients. A collarless jacket is nothing new. It existed 20 years ago, but with the right proportions and fabrics, it feels completely fresh.”
That same philosophy is guiding Corneliani’s global expansion. In March 2025, the brand opened its first directly operated boutique in China, at Grand Gateway 66 in Shanghai. Unlike previous franchised locations, the store offers a fully curated Corneliani experience: made-to-measure services, contemporary and heritage pieces, and now, a deeper connection to Chinese clientele.
To celebrate the Shanghai opening, the brand launched the Lotus Jacket, an exclusive collaboration with Chinese artist Wu Jian’an. “The Lotus Jacket is more than just outerwear; it is a symbol of connection and a tribute to the beauty of diverse stories and perspectives,” Tramonte says.
Crafted in pure silk, the Lotus Jacket is a poetic convergence of East and West. Its most striking detail — a lotus flower in soft suede, placed over the heart and on the sleeve — serves as a powerful symbol of cultural dialogue and artistic sensitivity. A delicately embroidered dragonfly rests on the petals, evoking ideas of freedom and transformation. Available in deep blue and crisp white, the jacket embodies Corneliani’s vision of timeless elegance, where tradition meets quiet innovation with grace.
Tramonte sees this market expansion as timely: “Right now, I think there’s a real opportunity. There’s been a shift, people are more careful with how they spend. They want quality, consistency, authenticity. We’re a brand with a strong Italian identity, a healthy price policy, and most of our product is still made in Italy. When customers discover us, they tend to stay loyal.”
At the opening day, Corneliani also hosted a two-day event in a private house, transforming it into an immersive journey through the brand. “We built different rooms: one for the fashion show video, one for tailoring, one for craftsmanship. In one space, guests could emboss initials into leather goods themselves. It was intimate, very hands-on. That’s how you build a relationship — when someone discovers the brand and feels seen, it becomes loyalty.”
Looking ahead, Corneliani is setting its sights on further openings, including Beijing and Dubai. But Tramonte is clear that growth must be sustainable. “You can’t just throw millions at advertising or open stores for the sake of it. You have to grow step by step, with a clear idea of who you are and where you’re going.”
For SS26, that direction is illuminated by a sun that never fades. As for Corneliani’s message, it remains powerful: when elegance is sincere, it stands the test of time.
Discover the collection here.
photography. Courtesy of Corneliani
words. Gennaro Costanzo
