Yohji Yamamoto’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection delivered exactly what you’d expect — just not in the way you expected it. Showcased at the Salons de l’Hôtel De Ville, the Japanese designer’s latest offering reaffirmed his mastery over the balance between the raw and the refined, the chaotic and the composed.
Sticking to his signature black, Yamamoto didn’t need to shout to make an impact. The colour dominated the runway, but it wasn’t monotonous. Instead, it felt transformative — black as a canvas for experimentation. The silhouettes moved beyond the traditional; they were asymmetrical, unpolished yet calculated, with cuts and drapes that seemed almost accidental but revealed a precision only the designer could pull off.
Central to this season’s narrative was the use of discarded and unused materials. The result was a display of sculptural, off-kilter silhouettes that seemed to emerge from the fabric itself — organic, unrestrained, and anything but predictable. The garments had an undone quality, with knotted sections, jagged edges, and draped elements that looked as though they had been discovered rather than crafted.
Then, there was the red. It wasn’t loud or attention-seeking, but when it appeared, it punctuated the black like a sudden exhale. Here, the headpieces were a standout: black, wide-brimmed hats, slightly tilted, with an elegant, delicate black lace veil that draped over part of the model’s face. This added a mysterious, gothic quality to the otherwise bold red silhouette. The veil’s intricate detailing contrasted with the clean, sharp lines of the outfit, creating an interplay between soft and structured elements. This contrast enhanced the mood of the collection, emphasising the tension between shadow and light. The red details emerged in small moments, a subtle reminder that even within darkness, there’s always something unexpected.
Yohji Yamamoto isn’t here to follow trends, and he’s certainly not interested in the fast-paced churn of the fashion machine. Instead, he continues to push the boundaries of what clothing can be, all while staying grounded in his philosophy of timeless, artful rebellion.
Discover the collection here.
photography. Monica Feudi
words. Gennaro Costanzo
