image. Zegna
With 192 bales of raw linen placed in a square in the centre of Milan, Zegna created their idea of an oasis to house their spring/summer 2024 runway show. The collection, titled ‘L’Oasi Di Lino’, took Milan Fashion Week (MFW) by storm this past Monday, with those lucky to be in attendance feasting their eyes on textured garments, pastel hues, and tailored suiting. The designer and creative director of the brand, Alessandro Sartori, wanted to promote change with this collection, emphasising Zegna’s commitment to certifying their Oasi Lino fibres as 100% traceable by 2024. And while the bales of linen set the scene for the show at MFW, they will re-enter the production chain to be made into Oasi Lino fabrics, leaving nothing to waste.
With a new perspective in mind, the brand focused on efficient wardrobes, designing tops, bottoms, accessories, and underpinnings that can be mixed and matched. Not only does this promote circular fashion, but it allows customers to create their own looks and experiment with their style. Flowy coats, structured blazers, and oversized vests paired with full trousers and Bermuda shorts allow for a casual yet sophisticated look. The sack jumpsuit—a returning style—encompasses the same feelings: comfy and relaxed, but nothing short of luxurious.
According to Sartori, linen is “a vector of nimbleness,” a fabric that complements every collection and can be tailored to every individual. With linen being at the forefront of the collection, one would expect the other fabrics to pale in comparison, but the accompanying knit, raffia, wool, and leather stand out in their own ways. The contrasting fabrics create beautiful textures within the looks, allowing each individual garment to shine. Leather trousers and jackets radiated the sunlight, shimmering as the models walked the runway.
Continuing the natural theme, cream, beige, khaki, and brown monochrome looks occupied most of the collection, while accents of flamingo pink and Namibia orange scattered themselves throughout the 54 looks. Irregular lines running up and down the garments were the only patterns found in the collection, and whilst subtle, they gave the pieces a laid-back feel.
Monochromatic accessories were understated but powerful. Knitted neck scarves completed many of the looks, while caps were far and few between. Rectangular leather pouches, large totes, and crossbody bucket bags are the classic and quiet luxury bags that every wardrobe needs. Paired with oversized soled slip-ons and sporty espadrilles, the collection, once again, alluded to nature in a metropolitan setting.
Zegna’s mission to create an elegant and timeless collection with a commitment to traceability brought forth a new perspective on fashion for spectators and the brand. With classic silhouettes, an earthy colour palette, and summery accessories, ‘L’Oasi Di Lino’ is a collection that will stand the test of time.
image. Zegna
images. Zegna
words. Amber Louise
