Every year thousands of prospective designers clamour to be heard in the relentless industry that is fashion. Among the names of those who stand up are those of the fresh talent at Middlesex UniversityMiddlesex University. As Graduate Fashion Week began, the institution presented its Fashion Show at the Vinyl Factory in Soho, comprising 17 carefully selected BA Fashion Design and BA Fashion Textiles graduates. Schön! brings you seix designers that caught our eye during the show.
Chelsey Murray took the classic jacquard to another level. For his Menswear collection, the Fashion Textiles student created intricate woven designs featuring the canonical camo colour palette. Taking inspiration from the military, Chelsey’s work channelled the Yeezy craze aesthetic with textile technology underpinnings, with nods to traditional menswear prints and utility hardware details.
Elisabeth Collin’s designs spoke for themselves. The young designer created oversized padded denim coats highlighted with ostrich feathers. The clash of textures that was heightened by the Shibori-inspired hand-dyed pattern bleached denim.
Emily Witham has been making some noise on the menswear scene for a while now. Last year she was selected for the FAD finals at London Fashion Week, following in the footsteps of designers like Vivienne Westwood and Hussein Chalayan. For her final collection, the menswear designer channelled the whimsical world of Alice in Wonderland with a series of perfectly tailored suits and coats where colour, playful collars, hearts, and stars were the main actors.
Gaia Waters made ripples in the menswear sphere with her unique take on sustainable fashion. Gaia decided to create a collection inspired by urban sportswear with an unusual take: all her pieces featured repurposed clothing. It was a suburban take on Margiela’s deconstructionism, with subtle references to the bright primary colours of ’90s.
Halina Edwards presented extremely wearable pieces where lines and perspective spoke for themselves. Most remarkable was her screen-printed Bubble suit, that confronted the textiles with texture.
Oversized cuts were the order of the day for German designer Sebastian Röck in a collection that mixed heavy and flowing textiles seamlessly, from workwear dungarees to raving trousers. Sebastian rocked the runaway with his gender-bending designs in a perfectly calibrated orchestra of digital prints and texture.
Discover more about the Middlesex graduates here.
Words / Sara Delgado