Roberto Cavalli‘s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, titled “Views from Zancle”, is a masterful ode to the spirit of Messina and the legendary house’s founder, Roberto Cavalli. Under the creative vision of Fausto Puglisi, this collection breathes new life into the brand’s heritage while staying grounded in the place that inspired it all — Puglisi’s homeland.
Zancle, the ancient name for Messina, is the pulse of this collection, and Puglisi’s deep connection to its rugged beauty and untameable seas shines through. It’s a love letter to the island that shaped him, with every stitch echoing the charm and danger of the strait that separates Sicily from mainland Italy. Fausto’s vision is rooted in this land, but just as Messina looks out toward the horizon, so too does he — infusing Cavalli with both his Sicilian soul and a contemporary, pragmatic sensibility drawn from his time in America.
The show, set against the breathtaking backdrop of the Greek theatre of Siracusa at sunset, unfolded like an operatic crescendo. The opening looks were a study in texture and restraint: white, ivory, and ecru trench coats and draped dresses, layered with embroidered nets reminiscent of fishermen’s ropes and chains. The pieces were tactile, like the graffiato walls of Messina’s homes, without a single print in sight.
But soon, the collection shifted gears, drawing us into a vivid sunset over the sea. Bright reds, froissè silks, and jacquard coats evoked the fiery sun sinking into the water. Then, the blues took over, mirroring the liquidity of the sea in flowing dresses and suits that seemed to move with the rhythm of the waves. Sequinned sirens emerged from these waters, embodying the seductive allure of the Strait of Messina, with every step reflecting a glistening horizon.
Puglisi’s exploration of materials is just as dynamic as his storytelling. Jute, cotton, linens, woven raffia, and various forms of silk — including a laminated silk with the sheen of ice — create a collection that feels as natural as it does luxurious. His Cavalli is effortlessly summery, channeling a deep appreciation for the natural world, remaining true to the brand’s style.
In an emotional tribute to the late Roberto Cavalli, seven archival pieces graced the catwalk, giving a nod to the house’s history. Zebra print slip dresses from Fall/Winter 2000, a leather and chiffon siren gown from 2003, and three feathered gowns from 2004 were a testament to Cavalli’s wild, glamorous aesthetic. As a further tribute, a capsule collection, “Zebra 2000”, was unveiled: a contemporary reimagining of the zebra print in sleek separates and three colourways, ready for purchase immediately after the show.
With “Views from Zancle”, Fausto Puglisi brings a new Cavalli to life. It’s a vision that bridges past and present, a celebration of both Messina and the legendary Roberto Cavalli, whose fearless and untamed spirit lingers in every design.
Find out more about the new collection at RobertoCavalli.com
photography. Roberto Cavalli
words. Gennaro Costanzo
