photography. Vitalij Sidorivic
Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2024 came and went in a whirlwind of colour, craftsmanship, and collaboration. Over five days, designers shared their latest work, with N21 showing bourgeois chic silhouettes, vibrant Calypso-inspired looks taking the reins at Sagaboi, and Etro exploring a Homeric journey.
Bourgeois chic – with a contemporary feel – served as the inspiration behind N21’s latest collection. In his show notes, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua said, “I wanted clothes that would talk openly about a pursuit of quality […] in order to effectively capture and express a very conscious form of bourgeois eroticism,”. To fully realise these ideas, he looked to 1980s haute couture, designing wool bouclé suits, sheer chiffon dresses, and leopard fur coats, all of which screamed opulence. A-line cocktail dresses featured bow necklines and marabou scarves and sweaters were paired with sheer sequined skirts. Pops of red found their way into the neutral colour palette – and on new sizes of the chunky ‘Malibu’ bag. Crystals embellished not only the clothes but the ‘Jeanne’ bag and slingbacks, too. Quality, glamour, and freedom all converged within this collection.
Fascinated with Calypso music – Caribbean music originating from West African Kaiso and Canboulay – and style, creative director Geoff K. Cooper brought flamboyance and vibrancy to his fall/winter collection for Sagaboi, Calypso Arrival. Legendary Calypsonians like Mighty Sparrow, Harry Belafonte, and Calypso Rose were the main sources of inspiration, influencing a collection full of sequins, fringe, frills, and furs. Dazzling mango yellow, hibiscus red, and verdant green were featured on silk blouses with bell sleeves, sequin mini skirts with ruffle fringe, and leather suits. The rich history of steel pan culture was explored with steel pan vests and quilted bomber jackets. The collection celebrated Calypso as a symbol of resistance and cultural pride, from its carefree music to political commentary.
Etro took its audience on a journey without a map during its newest coed collection. Creative director Marco de Vincenzo looked at creating his own Homeric journey, one that translated into a collection chock full of layering, prints, and muted colours. Scarves were reworked, wrapping around the female form to cover arms, act as skirts, and form dresses whilst patterned neck scarves served as subtle adornments. Tailored suits and structured coats were juxtaposed against light button-ups and airy fabrics. The rich felt and leather garments were enhanced with foil and stencil patterns, paisley became a large knitted stitch, and upholstered fabrics were made into jackets. Archaeological treasures that became necklaces, earrings, and bracelets, and jacquard body stockings – made in collaboration with Wolford – embellished each model’s look.
words. Amber Louise
photography. Paolo Pucci (N21), Vitalij Sidorivic (Sagaboi), and courtesy of Etro
