Diversity and sustainability are at the heart of the 31st edition of 080 Barcelona Fashion Week. Twenty-five talented designers and brands from Barcelona will showcase collections with unique inspirations, silhouettes, and colour palettes, but they all share a common goal of promoting a sustainable and circular fashion industry. The four-day fashion-packed event will take place from May 2 to 5 at the stunning Recinte Modernista de Sant Pau. Formerly a hospital, the location now serves as a museum and art venue.
The platform, supporting Catalan fashion designers, has made it their mission with the latest edition of their fashion week, to promote diversity and inclusion within their shows. The Crafts and Fashion Consortium of Catalonia (CCAM) and Catalan Women’s Institute (ICD) are joining together to create action, “[raising] awareness about body neutrality and functional diversity, [by holding] an inclusive fashion show through the Free Form Style brand” (080 Barcelona Fashion, 2023).
Kicking off the event is SIMORRA, a contemporary fashion brand combining sophistication with Mediterranean-inspired fabrics and silhouettes. Founded in 1978 by Javier Simorra, the brand has developed a strong sense of self; each piece being elegant but comfortable, catering to the modern woman. Showing their newest spring/summer 2023 collection titled ‘In Touch’, we can expect to see these core values woven throughout the collection.
The Artelier, founded by Alba Ayza in 2020, was created to showcase the designer’s fondness for prints. After discovering a love for fashion, Ayza attended LCI Barcelona University for fashion design and has since had her designs featured in major publications including Harper’s Bazaar Mexico and GQ Portugal. Her latest collection, ‘Retiens La Nuit’, is a culmination of her life and experience thus far and aims to reflect the passage of time within designs featuring sustainable fabrics and OEKO-TEX-certified dyes.
Another brand that values sustainability is Laretta, a brand combining traditional and contemporary fashion. Founded after designer Lara Serrano attended IED Barcelona to earn her master’s degree in fashion design, the brand serves as more than just a passion project. Having designed pieces with incredible ruching and wondrous amounts of volume, spectators of her latest collection, ‘Acta Est Fabula’, can expect to be wowed. The collection, inspired by Gustav Klimt’s oil painting titled ‘Death And Life’, ponders existentialism through juxtaposition within colours and fabrics.
Bielo_Oscarleon combines two very different brands; Bielo is colourful and values simple silhouettes while Oscarleon is darker and plays with strong graphics and imagery. Bielo, founded by Josep Puig Romeu, the youngest of a family-owned manufacturing company based in La Llacuna, Barcelona, combines Catalan and Japanese craftsmanship to create one-of-a-kind knitwear. Oscarleon specialises in genderless fashion that tells a story through words and phrases printed onto his designs. Together, their collection ‘Romandre O Evolucionar’ is sure to incorporate elements from each brand beautifully.
Knitwear is also at the core of Escorpion, a fashion brand empowering women one jumper at a time. Founded in 1929, the family-owned company takes sustainability and circularity seriously, using sustainable fabrics and aiming to cut back water consumption from their dyeing process by up to 25% by 2026. Their latest capsule collection is made of elegant and unique knitwear that will be the perfect addition to every wardrobe. Focusing on timeless style, their silhouettes, colours, and detailed stitching make Escorpion the perfect brand to shop knitwear from.
Belgian fashion designer based in Barcelona, Nathalie Chandler, founded her namesake brand in 2021. Formerly a fashion stylist based in Paris, she built a signature style that she’s brought with her into her fashion brand: rocker chic. Selling high-quality clothing that incorporates pieces from Chandler’s past, the label reinvents the wheel by combining two seemingly opposite ideas marvellously. Her latest collection, titled ‘Breaks Codes’, is exactly that—something that breaks all style barriers and sets women free.
Versatility is at the heart of Lebor Gabala’s fall/winter 2023/24 collection, ‘From Day to Night’. The brand, founded by Maite Muñoz over 20 years ago, nods to ‘Lebor Gabála Érenn’ in the title and aims to invade the fashion industry with its craftsmanship. Muñoz’s experience within the textile industry led her to value quality fabrics and timeless silhouettes. Her latest collection does just that by focusing on versatile pieces that can work for any occasion. Her use of colour, shape, and fabrics, makes the brand stand out from the crowd.
For 404 Studio, culture is a huge part of their brand, so much so that each collection is inspired by a cult film. Focusing on the films Navajeros, Colegas, La estanquera de Vallecas, and El Pico by Spanish screenwriter Eloy de la Iglesia, their autumn/winter 2023 collection, ‘No me quedan Lágrimas’, celebrates the Quinqui film genre that was often overlooked in the late 70s. Also looking back into the 70s is Victor Von Schwarz with his latest collection titled ‘The American Dream’. Schwarz started his namesake brand after studying tailoring and fashion in Spain. Splitting his time between Barcelona and Taipei, he is known for his eclectic designs and unique silhouettes. Diving into the Americanized version of success and stardom through a 70s lens, Schwarz has adopted a cowboy theme within his collection, using denim, prints, and colours to enhance the story.
Txell Miras is a namesake ready-to-wear brand, founded in 2004, designing avant-garde pieces that are expertly crafted. Miras’ latest collection is a winter presentation titled ‘Distopia’, bringing awareness to the climate crisis. Due to the increase in extreme weather and global warming, the designer opted to show a collection of coats that protect the body. This is new for the brand, as they often show versatile layering pieces in each look.
Menchen Tomas, an haute-couture fashion brand known for their ready-to-wear and tailor-made bridal and evening wear, was founded by Olga Menchén in 1995. After studying at the Escuela de Artes y Técnicas de la Moda in Barcelona, she went on to work as a costume designer for theatre, film, and TV before starting her brand. Her latest collection, ‘Circus’, takes inspiration from the travelling performers during the 19th century, incorporating pieces from the circus tent, music, colours, and costumes into the garments. Compte Spain is a prêt-à-couture brand telling stories through each collection of sustainably made clothing. Founded by Santi Mozas after studying communication and fashion design at the Instituto Europeo di Design and teaching himself the art of pattern making, he has created a brand with a strong identity. His autumn/winter 2023/24 collection, titled ‘Trauma’, explores the nightmares and fears that influence us.
Paolo Leduc has always been in love with art, so it only made sense to translate his artistry into clothing. His brand focuses on tailoring, creating unique shapes that distort the wearer, working with distressed fabrics, and incorporating artwork. ‘Between Sun and Shade’, his latest collection, is a reflection of his experiences and works to combine night and day through fabrics, paintings, and muted colours.
The ocean, and the creatures within it, are what inspired Anel Yaos’ latest collection, ‘Deep’. Known for his abundant education, experience, and intricate designs, Yaos brings a more minimalist approach to his new collection. Creating water-like pieces with silk and chiffon fabrics, we can expect to see ethereal garments floating down the runway. Outsiders Division, founded by David Méndez Alonso, however, is anything but minimalist. With a love for graffiti and comics, Alonso set out to incorporate those elements into his designs, creating clothing for adults that don’t want to grow up. His latest collection, ‘Cofre Del Tesoro’, follows those same guidelines with Alonso using animals to adorn his crocheted, patchworked, quilted, and painted designs.
Founded in 2019 by Véronique Vaillant von Siebenthal and Laura Johansson, The Label Edition is a fashion brand aiming to enhance women, not overshadow them. Creating high-quality garments that are made sustainably and locally is at the core of the brand. ‘M.O.T.L.E.Y.’, their spring/summer 2023 collection, brings a bright colour palette to expertly tailored pieces that are versatile, timeless, and comfortable.
Custo Barcelona, founded by brothers David and Custo Dalmau in 1980, was the first brand to create printed tees. After their launch in the USA, their popularity skyrocketed, with characters from Friends and Sex and the City sporting the t-shirts. Since then, the brand has continued to play with prints, colours, and silhouettes across all clothing categories. Within their latest collection, we can expect to see an abundance of colours and prints pop from a mix of fabrics and textures. Brand identity is just as crucial to Dominnico. The ready-to-wear brand, founded in 2016 by Domingo Rodríguez Lázaro, has a distinctive style woven into each collection; that being asymmetrical cut-outs, leather and Tencel fabrics, and their signature silver hardware. The fall 2023 collection, titled ‘Dildom’, is an extension of Dominnico’s past designs, but has been made new with inspiration budding from motorcycles and a contemporary colour palette.
Free Form Style is pioneering change in Spain, being the first truly inclusive fashion brand in the country, by designing with disabilities in mind. Re-thinking clothing to make it inclusive and stylish is what the brand does best. Their latest collection, ‘Just a Perfect Day’, combines punk and new romantic styles with comfortable and versatile designs for all body types. Rita Row, a fashion brand designing clothes with women in mind, was founded in 2013 by Imma Serra and Xènia Semis. Valuing local, ethical, and sustainable production, the brand promotes timeless and classic pieces. Their latest collection, ‘West Row’, challenges the wearer to be herself and grow confidently. The designs feature a variety of sustainable fabrics, including organic cotton, cashmere, virgin wool, and recycled fibres, among others.
Taking inspiration from graffiti and urban art, Reveligion—a contemporary fashion brand founded by María Rodríguez Blanco—gears up to debut their newest collection, ‘Vandal’. Blanco studied fashion design at CEADE Leonardo, Seville, before founding Reveligion in 2015. Recognized by the likes of Vogue Runway, Marie Claire, and ELLE, the brand has created a distinctive image. Leaving much of their latest collection to the imagination, we can only imagine how impactful the designs will be. Following similar values, Habey Club is dedicated to sustainability, producing slow fashion locally and ethically. Founded by David Salvador and Javier Zunzunegui, the brand uses recycled and organic fibres to produce elegant silhouettes and effortless pieces. Their latest collection, ‘Perspective’, follows the viewpoint of an individual from childhood to adulthood. Represented through clothing, pieces go from muted to hyperrealistic and elongated to signify growth.
Lola Casademunt, a family-owned fashion and accessories brand, was founded in 1981 and has since grown into two lines. One of them being Lola Casademunt by Maite, a premium label designed by the founder’s daughter, Maite Casademunt. Her newest collection, titled ‘Acid Urban’, speaks to city lovers, incorporating eclectic and contemporary elements to create the perfect street style collection.
Eñaut is raising awareness for the climate crisis with his latest collection, ‘Vulturno’, which highlights what rising temperatures will do to our ecosystem. Designer Eñaut Barruetabeña founded the brand after graduating in fashion design from IED Barcelona and has dedicated his work to showcasing the pollution the fashion industry causes. Past collections, ‘Logging 4%’, ‘Oil Sea’, and ‘Permafrost’ are just a few examples of his commitment to climate activism, whilst creating ethical and sustainable fashion.
Lastly, Yolancris, a brand that specialises in bridal and evening wear, will be closing the four-day event. Founded by sisters Yolanda and Cristina Pérez in 2005, the brand has expanded across Europe, building a reputation for creating exquisitely detailed formal gowns. Their latest evening wear collection, ‘Black Gofrado’, is inspired by embossing and combines luxurious fabrics, iconic winter coats, and a deep colour palette.
For more information on all the designers showcased at this year’s 080 Fashion, visit 080barcelonafashion.cat and follow them on Instagram. Imagery is provided by 080 Barcelona from their last collection.
words. Amber Louise