Emerging London-based shoe designer Ancuta Sarca has taken on a new challenge: using scent to inspire her footwear design. The Romanian designer, who is known for her individual sneaker-heel combo, debuted at London Fashion Week in 2019 as part of Fashion East and, since then, she has taken the industry by storm, not only carving out her own place on the border of sportswear and luxury but also with her commitment to circular fashion.
Selected as Molton Brown’s newest ‘Artists of Note’ – which brings in a creative to reimagine a fragrance through their own practice – Sarca was tasked with creating a shoe that perfectly encaptures the brand’s new Bluebell and Wild Strawberry scent. With bluebell at the heart, a top note of wild strawberry, warm amber and driftwood at the base, and Molton Brown’s signature note of earthy violet leaf, the fragrance encapsulates spring’s vibrant nature. Created by Senior Perfumer Véronique Nyberg, it is based on her walks in nature and memories of her childhood in Alpes-de-Haute-Provence.
Embodying the scent in shoe form, Sarca used deadstock purple velvet and leather to design a pointed-toe kitten heel mule. On the top sat a blue flower motif – synonymous with Sarca’s designs – made from deadstock trainers and featuring her logo in the centre.
In conversation with Schön!, Sarca details working with Molton Brown and designing a shoe inspired by scent.
Firstly, I want to congratulate you on your collaboration with Molton Brown! You were tasked with designing a pair of shoes inspired by their new Bluebell & Wild Strawberry scent. What initially prompted you to be a part of this project?
What really excited me from the beginning was the idea of designing something based on scent, which I hadn’t done before, so it came as an intriguing challenge that really excited me. I already loved Molton Brown products, so it felt right and very aligned with my brand to work on something like this.
How did it feel to be selected for the brand’s latest ‘Artists of Note’ instalment?
It feels really exciting to be part of this collaboration. Molton Brown gave me a great deal of creative freedom, which allowed me to approach the project in my own authentic way. That trust made the process even more inspiring because I could craft something unique that genuinely resonated with my artistic voice while still aligning with the story behind the fragrance.
You mentioned that you haven’t worked much with scent before. What has that been like to do within this project?
Scent hasn’t traditionally been a direct part of my creative process when designing footwear. I usually focus on texture, colour, and form as key sources of inspiration. However, this project opened up an entirely new sensory avenue for me. Translating an olfactory experience into a visual and tactile product was a fascinating challenge and encouraged me to think differently about storytelling through design.
What was your initial reaction or thought when you smelled the perfume?
The first thing that struck me was how vibrant and fresh it felt. It carried an earthy depth, like the memory of a serene walk in nature. There was a harmonious balance between energy and calm, which I knew would be important to translate into my design.
What notes of the scent did you hone in on, and how did they manifest into aspects of your footwear design?
I was particularly drawn to the purple, green, and woody elements. They reminded me of textures found in nature – the contrast between smooth leaves and rough bark. That contrast became a central theme for my design choices. I incorporated structured yet organic shapes and selected materials with subtle textures to mirror the duality of the scent.
The scent is inspired by perfumer Véronique Nyberg’s love for walks in nature. How did that inspiration shape your design process?
I wanted to capture the feeling of reconnecting with nature – the sense of calm but also that spark of energy you get from being outdoors. This led me to experiment with earthy tones and fluid, natural forms in the design. It was about finding a balance between groundedness and elegance, much like nature itself.
What was the biggest challenge you faced while working on this collaboration?
The biggest challenge was interpreting something as intangible as scent and transforming it into a tangible product. Footwear design is such a tactile process, and I wanted the final piece to reflect not just the essence of the scent but also the emotions it evokes. Striking that balance between inspiration and practicality required a lot of thoughtful iteration. But that challenge also made it incredibly rewarding.
Molton Brown’s new Bluebell & Wild Strawberry Collection is available in-store and online 17th February 2025.
imagery. Molton Brown
words. Amber Louise