Art was the “mot d’ordre” of Pierpaolo Piccioli’s latest Valentino collection. Art with a stance, with a message, with a strong voice. Titled L’École, the Spring/Summer 2024 show summarised everything that we’ve come to love in Piccioli’s take on the artistry of the house, putting the desire for expression at the heart of the collection. Housed in the Beaux Arts school of Paris, the show starred FKA Twigs in a performance which encompassed everything that the clothes represented.
“Over the past few months, Pierpaolo and I have written and spoken about the desire for raw art and the lack of expression in our individual industries,” FKA Twigs explained. “During one conversation, Pierpaolo and I discussed the inspiration for this collection and how it derived from a raw femininity. We talked about how a woman, with no makeup and her hair down, can exist in the world as a power and a force. He told me that I was that woman.” Accompanied by dancers from Ballet Rambert, FKA Twigs performed in a collection that exulted agency over one’s own body, individuality and expression, power and emancipation.
Working with Altorilievo – a new technique developped by the house which could be translated as ‘High Relief’, which cuts out fabric into sculpted 3-dimensional patterns – Piccioli brought strong volumes to life, that created a simplicity through elaborate finishings. With cut out designs, glimpses of skin can be seen in various silhouettes thanks to this technique, re-asserting the will and independence of every woman can and is free to define her own agency.
Simplicity put personality centrestage, with silhouettes adorned in T-Shirts, jeans, shirts, in silks and raw linen. The feeling was remarkably down to earth, something that Pierpaolo Piccioli masters exceptionally well. Introducing a new bag for the season, the Valentino Garavani V Logo Moon Bag also made its premiere during the show, an ergonomic, pragmatic yet highly elegant accessory. A highlight of the season to come.
Discover the collection here.
words. Patrick Clark
