le noir | valentino fw24

photography. Courtesy of Valentino

The colour black is a staple in almost everybody’s wardrobes and therefore, can be seen as a safe and, sometimes, boring colour. Valentino’s Le Noir Fall/Winter 2024-25 collection has discredited that idea, redefining black and proving that it can be light, airy, and soft. Creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli was inspired by the idea that black can challenge stereotypes, explored by French Poet Charles Baudelaire who wrote, “Le noir est l’uniforme de la démocratie”. Piccioli disregarded Valentino’s signature bold colours, instead showing a monochromatic black collection with textures, patterns, and fabrics bringing each look to life. 

Piccioli’s first look set the scene, with the model decked out in a structured long-sleeve mini dress with matching shorts underneath, black metal hoop earrings, patent leather heels, and, to top it all off, a black glossy lip resembling the heels’ glossy leather. The crossbody bag, adorned with silver hardware, was styled as a clutch, a detail that continued throughout the show. 

Each look blurred the lines between night and day, with sculptural shapes and cascading fabrics highlighting the female form. 80s-inspired padded shoulders were featured on oversized coats, mini dresses, tops, and capes, standing out from the chiffon, tulle, and crêpe numbers. Ruffle tulle skirts – which swayed as models strutted down the Parisian runway – were paired with draped v-neck blouses, armless lace catsuits hid under sheer capes, and open blazers had matching midi skirts. Garments were embellished with mini – and maxi – rosettes on cuffs, sequins and embroideries, and ruffles. Standout pieces included an all-over sequin jacket with long rectangular embellishments hanging from the lower half to act as a fringe, a floral cut-out mini dress, and a sheer maxi dress with floral appliqués scattered from head-to-toe.

The accompanying accessories were simple, allowing the garments to shine on their own. Variations of the pointed-toe patent leather heels from the first look were worn by most of the models, broken up by the odd leather riding boot. Crossbody bags were made in soft, supple leather, croc skin, and suede, some of which were ornamented with miniature flowers. Valentino’s Vlogo Moon Hobo Bags were designed in soft leather with black hardware, the iconic Loco shoulder bags were quilted and featured the same floral detailing, and the totes had a padded rose design covering them. 

The final look – a floor-length sheer cape covered in 3D polka dots, wide-leg trousers, and leather opera gloves – floated down the runway, highlighting Piccioli’s incredible eye for detail. While the collection never strayed from one colour, it wasn’t missing emotion, depth, or craftsmanship. It was a true testament to the enduring quality of Valentino and its ability to redefine signature colours and styles.

words. Amber Louise
photography. Courtesy of Valentino

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