marble and maximalism | roberto cavalli fw24

photography. Courtesy of Roberto Cavalli

Roberto Cavalli’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection, ‘Marbleous’, by creative director Fausto Puglisi, marked a new direction for the Italian fashion house. Known for its eccentric prints, Roberto Cavalli has always been at the forefront of ultra-luxurious maximalism. Working on his latest collection, Puglisi took inspiration from art and architecture, especially marble, hence the collection’s name – a combination of marble and marvellous. A bold choice of words, but it perfectly described his designs.

Strutting down the marble catwalk to electro-pop, Puglisi’s first look, a crinkled twill long-sleeve top and skirt in the Grand Antique marble print, a simple black basque, and greyscale python boots, foreshadowed the significance of the print throughout the collection. Polychrome marble – which features an array of colours – was inspired by historic Pompeii villas, manifesting itself on oversized puffer jackets, wide-leg trousers, patent trench coats, and maxi dresses with thigh-high slits and flowy trains. 

The classic black and white combination appeared splashed over the first three looks, with the fourth – a printed silk twill maxi dress spliced with sheer cut-outs accentuating the female form, the same python boots, and a pleated cape – introducing a black and yellow marble on the underside of the cape that followed suit towards the end of the show.

Within the collection, two couture dresses with trapeze silhouettes highlighted the brand’s quality craftsmanship. One, with a black velvet bust and marble printed skirt embellished with crystal details and leather and velvet inlays. The other, with a v-neck bra top and burgundy marble printed skirt adorned with micro embroidery and featuring cut-outs.

Between the printed garments, double and single-breasted blazers slimmed to emphasise curves were paired with bell skirts, straight trousers, and tailored shorts. Olive green, mustard, and burgundy monochrome looks, consisting of sheer v-neck long sleeves, maxi and mini skirts, and belted dresses, provided simple but striking options, garnering as much attention as their marble counterparts. Oversized leather blouses, floral printed trousers, and devoré velvet skirts were thrown into the mix, as well.

Roberto Cavalli fans were pleased to see the return of the Roar Bag, this time, in an updated rounded model in marble effect reptile and colourful crocodile with the two gold bejewelled tiger heads adorning the base of the handles. Jewel buttons, chunky gold necklaces, leather opera gloves, and rounded sunglasses were all subtle touches that pulled the collection together.

The last look, a deep purple devoré velvet maxi dress with cut-outs at the waist joined with a gold clasp and an asymmetrical cape trailing behind, was the perfect encapsulation of the collection. While marble is extremely solid, the collection was light and airy, with flowy and fluid garments spotlighted. Through this, Puglisi represented a metamorphosis that paralleled the Marbleous woman as she grew and evolved.

words. Amber Louise
photography. Courtesy of Roberto Cavalli

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