backstage buzz | milan fashion week aw2020

 

While our minds may be a little preoccupied with Paris Fashion Week, it does us well to look back at some of the other weeks of this season. Most recently, Milan Fashion Week captured our imagination, taking us through the Italian fashion world and beyond to give us an insight into the trends of tomorrow. As we do with many of the major fashion weeks, Schön! is here to give our readers an exclusive look at the behind-the-scenes goings-on from the week while highlighting some of our favourites.

First on our list is Annakiki. Annakiki gave us a vibrant collection rich in both colour and style. Inspired by the unreality of fake news, the latest from Annakiki created its own dreamworld on the Milan runway, with memorable pieces including a phone-icon print coat with matching leggings and a rainbow-striped suit jacket.

Anteprima went big for this season’s Milan Fashion Week. Looks were roomy and varied, offering a series of cozy fits in a range of patterns with comfort at their heart. This is not to say pieces were not glamourous; layering and shiny golds reminded us why Anteprima is a top player in the world of mixing luxury with comfort.

Calcaterra embraced silence for their Milan show. Inspired by John Cage’s composition 4’33”, the label presented a series of minimalist, streamlined looks reminiscent of certain styles of the ’80s and ’90s. Looks were versatile though never boring, making this collection a memorable entry in our week.

For DROMe’s latest show, the label designed a collection to put the power of women at the forefront. Women from all walks of life were the inspiration, with creative director Marianna Rosati drawing design clues from a 1968 French book entitled Les Erotiques Du Regard, a documentary about Danish prostitution and a collection of photographs of Chinese sex workers taken by Zhang Hayer. All of these influences were woven together to create an empowering yet sensual collection.

Next up is Iceberg. The label brought their streetwear to the mountains for this collection. Most pieces were offered in blacks and whites, marking the collection as a stark contrast from last season’s presentation. Still, there was room to have fun; several pieces had prints of The Jetsons on them, and Iceberg played with form in the way that only they can.

Closing out our list is the many-patterned collection of Arthur Arbesser. This quirky collection was a gem, offering a smattering of Milan-inspired looks across a spectrum of forms. For this collection, Arbesser collaborated with Marco Guazzini, working together to create something they call Marwoolus — a ceramic-like material that mixes wool and pressed marble powder.

 

This Schön! online exclusive has been produced by

photography. Elisa Trento + Ana Martínez (Arthur Arbesser only)
words. Braden Bjella 


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