menswear conclusions | milan

Z Zegna

As Florence and its seasonal Pitti Uomo gain weight in the menswear calendar, Milan’s mark on the global schedule could be seen as being jeopardised. But designers and their sleek, exuberant designs asserted that, moving forward, Milan will always hold its weight, and that with brilliance: while the tailoring talent will undoubtedly always constitute the common thread running through the schedule, Milan’s offering is increasingly that of a confident man, who doesn’t shy away from colour, print, outlandish or editorial-type designs. With Alessandro Michele’s reinvention of the Gucci empire spearheading a new era in Italian menswear, Milan is reconfiguring its approach to gender, design and form. Always with exceptional sprezzatura and style, of course. 

Z Zegna’s man was wrapped up for Autumn/Winter 2016. Layered under puffa coats and elongated bombers were hoodies and turtlenecks, synched at the waist with leather belts. A delectable colour palette of lime, beige, grey and orange modernised Italian tailoring whilst autumnal twig prints and hiking boots urbanised suiting.

N° 21

Large utilitarian pockets and khaki colours added military details to Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s urban collection for N°21. Straps hung from cuffs and cargo pockets positioned on thighs as drawstrings finished hemlines. Italian luxury arrived in the form of leopard prints and furs, next to biker jackets, flannel shirts and wool jumpers.

MSGM

Massimo Giorgetti took inspiration from Elizabeth Peyton’s instinctive and unplanned work – working with an impulsive approach to watercolours, Peyton’s work translated its way into Giorgetti’s raw and unfinished hemlines, slashed tank tops and effortless layering. Argyle prints were modernised with urban chokers and d-ring belts as synthetic fibres including PVC trousers and trench coats contrasted against cottons and wool in primary colours of red, orange and blue.

Damir Doma

Within Milan’s central station, Damir Doma presented a brilliantly dark, industial collection with pops of white for autumn winter 2016. Silhouettes were oversized and sleeve lengths frayed and elongated as models walked down the platform alongside Frecciarossa’s 1000 express train. Kimono-esque jackets were synched at the waist whilst pea coat and blazers fastened with clusters of buttons on centre fronts. 

Ports 1961

With mid-length outerwear, culottes and motif printed jackets – Ports 1961 A/W16 collection was a clever continuation of last season’s silhouette, whilst asserting its brilliant new direction following Milan Vukmirovic’s creative lead. Japanese inspirations were evident as gold embroidery decorated satin bomber jacket and shirts in an far eastern colour palette of burnt orange, teal and deep navy accompanied by svelte monochrome black and white.

Versace

With Versace’s women campaign for Spring/Summer 2016 shot amongst snow covered mountains, galactic desert vibes continued with Donatella’s men wrapped up in fur lined jackets, puffa coats and woollen hats for the men’s collection. Space Futurism also evidently played a key role in Versace’s inspirations: reflective silver fabric formed trousers as eyelet hardware and crystals embellished white denim and combat style trousers. Violet, cool blue and peach sickly pastels contrasted with muted greys and blacks as a tribe of models space walked a crisp white runway. If that’s what life on Mars looks like, we’re there.

Les Hommes

Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch covered urban outerwear with geometric motifs for Les Hommes AW16.
Oversized shearling jackets, overcoats and hoodies topped shirt and ties with blue, white and red line prints for a modernised take on smart tailoring.

Pal Zileri

Sharp and elegantly masculine silhouettes were presented on Mauro Ravizza Krieger’s models for the Pal Zileri Autumn/Winter 2016 show. Lengths were elongated as coats grazed calves, whilst fabrications included furs and leathers along with stitching detail on bomber jackets, trousers and parkas modernised outerwear classics.

Dolce & Gabbana

Heading far, far west, Dolce & Gabbana’s guy was on cue this season, with the Dolce family heading out to the Rockies for a sun kissed collection. Entire denim looks, biker and bomber jackets were covered by cacti, horse shoe and revolver badges, with one cartoon cowboy taking centre place on a high necked jumper as oversized fur coat and trousers accompanied Dolce & Gabbana’s recurring floral and cherub tapestries, which embellished tailored suiting. A highlight, other than the oversized Mongolian furs à la Tarantino were, was without a doubt the pyjama silk suits. To sleep, live or die in, forever.

Gucci

Alessandro Michele’s nostalgic collection for Gucci autumn winter 2016 explored concepts of memory, collectivity and cultural imaginary. Poetically on point, a gender-neutral brigade walked along a rich red runway wearing floral suiting, graphic shell suits, tweed trench coats, ponchos, velour and silk pyjama two pieces. Michele’s exceptional vision for a young generation whose cultural past is rife with cinematic, visual and literary references is as ever, leading the way in the design field. Completed with lace sandals and Gucci’s now signature fur lined mule, we’ve certainly fallen under the charm of Gucci. Guilty as charged.

Neil Barrett

Neil Barrett presented a collection of modernised sportswear for his AW16 collection. Sharp and clean silhouettes brought an essence of minimalism, as sports classics including football fleeces and track pants were refined with luxurious fabrications, seen alongside leather and shearling coats.

Missoni

Autumn leaves a-plenty, Missoni presented a distinctively crepuscular collection, alive with the golden tones and deep blues of the season. Models walked along a bed of crunching orange and brown leaves, sporting an array of patterned woven cardigan and jumpers created from a selection of textiles. Layered beneath blazers, textured jumpers were embellished with beads and fringes, styled together with tweed trousers. A gentleman whose travelling tendencies took us to the Lands of Ladakh.

James Long modernised outerwear classics for his exciting first collection at Iceberg. MA1 flight bomber jackets and fur-collared parkas were given an Italian touch with luxury fabrications, whilst graphic lines and prints smothered sports pieces. Adding a touch of youthful energy, Disney’s Mickey Mouse covered sweaters, styled with track pants and utilitarian combats.

Revisiting Venice as a city of inspiration, pinstripe, plaid and Baroque prints were present in Vivienne Westwood’s collection. Revealing skin, designs varied in sheerness for a gender neutral individual, as silhouettes were fluid with satin draping over shoulders. Other looks exaggerated masculine tailoring with large shoulders and trousers, giving a big middle finger to establishment, as only Dame Viv can do. 

Corneliani

Mustard, brown and green tones dominated Corneliani’s winter show as models walked a cobbled runway. Trench coats, biker jackets and blazers finished winter looks including 1940s style printed cable-knit jumpers and high waisted suiting trousers, accessorised with milanese leather totes and classic brogues.

Words / Patrick Clark & Emily Gallagher