The AW2020 season of New York Fashion Week might have ended a few days ago but we still can’t shake the excitement from the week. That’s why, with the help of photographer Nick Merzetti, we’re taking a look behind the scenes to showcase some of the designers and collections that caught our eyes this season.
First up is Kollar, the label helmed by Canadian-based founder and design director David Kollar. Kollar offered a Big Apple collection inspired by the city’s underground nightlife scene in the ’90s. This was the label’s first NYFW showing, presenting a series of dark, streetwear-inspired looks ultimately, despite their influences, unlinked from time. Among those pieces were black leather jackets and thick white turtlenecks, all coming together to create edgy yet versatile looks.
Dirty Pineapple kept its subversive spirit alive once more this fashion week. Taking narcissism as a standpoint, the brand presented a highly wearable collection that questioned fashion nature’s very being. The vibrant colour palette, with striking blues and yellows, was contrasted by leather accent pieces.
For Sukeina, the label run by Senegalese designer Omar Salam, NYFW was just another opportunity to experiment. This time, fringe, ruffles and abstract ruffles reigned supreme, bold styles incorporated into a series of dresses and other pieces. A prominent theme was hip accentuation, with many designs celebrating the models’ natural curves.
Libertine’s fashion show was an explosion of colour, helmed once again by Johnson Hartig. Playful embroidery and pop art detailing coexisted with classic plaid patterns and seasonal animal prints.
Taiwanese designer Justin Yu-Ying Chou, head of label Just In XX, presented a collection entitled “Double Imprint,” that was heavily inspired by the minimalist works of Tsong Pu. As Pu is known for his intricate geometric patterns, those same patterns could be found across the many pieces in this collection, displayed across outerwear, formalwear and more. Not all of Just In XX’s presentation was so pattern-heavy; the occasional appearance of solid royal blues broke up the collection nicely.
It wouldn’t be NYFW without another explosive show from The Blonds. Sequin masks and shimmery costume-wear served to blend loud fashion with religious imagery. The label also invited some celebs to walk their runway, with Natti Natasha and Jillian Mercado making an appearance, the latter perched queenlike atop her wheelchair in an ornate gold bodysuit with matching headdress.
Dennis Basso also opted for color this season, favouring fuchsia and green in particular. Many floral patterns made their way into Basso’s work, but did so subtly and in a way that complimented the brand’s heritage. The coats were definitely the standout of the collection.
Private Policy‘s collection added an activist edge to the week, playing on themes of advertising and the healthcare industry to form a series of works resisting the tropes of modern American life while celebrating that same resistance. This subversion took the form of uniquely layered formalwear alongside looks in medical-scrub pinks and blues.
The latest from Pamella Roland brought the traditional elegance and glamour of Versailles to the streets of New York. Glamour is nothing new for Pamella Roland; previous seasons had the label showing a series of similarly shimmery body-con dresses. While the dresses of this season did not feel necessarily new, they did not disappoint, running with the Versailles theme to create a beautiful collection.
Katya Leonovich filled the catwalk with texture and colour. The seasoned designer continued her menswear venture with “Fix and Fax.” Complete with striking oranges, metallic overgarments, and graphic detailing, Leonovich managed to put forward a collection that felt current but futuristic and archivist at the same time.
To close out our backstage coverage, we’re turning our eyes eastward for Fashion Hong Kong. Fashion Hong Kong is a group devoted to promoting the work of Hong Kong designers abroad. This year, the group invited labels Harrison Wong, Heaven Please (run by Lary Cheung and Yi Chan) and Sun Lam’s brand SUN=SEN to present.
This Schön! online exclusive has been produced by
photography. Nick Merzetti
words. Braden Bjella + Sara Delgado
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