With Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tbilisi (MBFW Tbilisi) having come to a close this past Monday, May 8, it’s clear that the event has bounced back significantly post-pandemic. Returning to in-person shows for the first time in four years, emerging Georgian-based brands and designers have finally had the opportunity to present their collections and enter the BENEXT international fashion design contest. Bridging the gap between designers and the fashion industry, the contest serves to support and help young designers earn internships, work, and exposure. Coupled with BENEXT, MBFW Tbilisi not only gives a platform to growing brands but also promotes sustainability.
Over the course of four days—from May 4 to 8—dozens of designers took to the catwalk to show their latest fall/winter collections. Most notably, Berhasm, Nadya Dzyak, Ingorokva, and Datuna presented invigorating pieces that left an impression on spectators. Although each collection was true to the brand, they each embraced specific trending fabrics and styles, including lace, sheer fabrics, layering, and sharp tailoring.
Rich fabrics tailored to perfection made Berhasm’s collection, titled ‘It Is Not My Dream’ a standout. The brand, founded by Beso Turazashvili, blended heavy leather jackets with body-hugging knits and barely-there sheer fabrics to balance each look. Their logo, an abstract spiral, could be seen knitted and embroidered into assorted pieces, and while the size varied, the logo remained subtle. Denim on denim was also featured in two looks in the collection, creating a fresh look within the designs.
Nadya Dzyak redefined the flower motif, making it a prominent part of their fall/winter collection. The Ukrainian namesake brand, founded in 2008, embraced denim on denim—similar to Berhasm—showing a pair of distressed jeans alongside a strapless denim top embellished with ruffled fabric twisted to resemble a flower. Coupled with the feminine decoration were beautifully crafted sheer dresses and tops with intricate ruffling throughout. Not to mention tailored trousers and blazers, oversized puffer jackets, and knee-high boots that complemented the delicate pieces.
Boxy blazers with matching skirts and shorts, alongside structured dresses made from recycled taffeta, made up a large part of Ingorokva’s fall/winter collection. Founded by Tamuna Ingorokva, the brand combined fabrics and silhouettes creating a nostalgic 90s-inspired collection. Complementing the structured skirts were lace trims in black and cream, adding a feminine element to the sharp tailoring. Other honourable mentions include sheer trousers, lace woven flowy blouses, and pointed-toe kitten heels, all small details with a sterling impression.
Creating such an impactful collection using only one colour is a difficult task that Datuna managed to execute effortlessly. Founder and designer Datuna Sulikashvili worked solely with white to create a breathtaking body of work with an abundance of texture. Flowy sheer shirts with intricate embroidery, crisp white structured jackets, and elegant pleated dresses worked in unison, bringing the runway to life. Nods to bridalwear were hard to miss, with models sporting sheer beaded floor-length veils and holding bunches of white calla lilies. The star of the collection, however, was the waistcoat covered in flowers handcrafted with sequins and beads, making the collection a true masterpiece.
Each brand that took part in MBFW Tbilisi found a way to own the catwalk—whether that be through silhouette, fabric, or colour.
For more information on all the designers showcased at this year’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tbilisi, visit mbfashionweektbilisi.com and follow them on Instagram.
words. Amber Louise