If you wander a few steps away from Monastiraki square, and look for a discreet, minimal building front overlooking the Acropolis, you’ll arrive at Makris Athens: the fine dining destination at the very heart of the city. Here, under the watchful eye of chef Petros Dimas, Greek gastronomy is an energetic, dreamy and emotional journey, and invites diners on an exploration of memories. Inside the historic walls and above the foundations of an archeological site, a quiet conversation between past and present is at play. Through the glass floor in the basement, you’ll even see – and perhaps feel – the ancient ruins.
Here, each plate is anchored geographically and invites diners into the inner life of chef Petros Dimas. Think of it more as a personal archive built from childhood summers, island kitchens, Mediterranean tables and the slow, ritualistic pleasure of good ingredients. Makris has been a project of a lifetime and Athens is just the latest addition to a portfolio. The Michelin-starred restaurants took shape across Greece: first in Corfu, then Milos and Crete. In Athens, Makris feels like it has arrived at a culmination; it’s a place where chapters align.
If there’s one standout aspect of the approach to gastronomy at Makris Athens, it’s the gentle, poignant feeling that accompanies you throughout your time there. There are three set menus, including a vegan one, which all explore various facets of Greek cuisine. The Utopia menu is the embodiment of the world of Makris. The meal opens on an impactful, vivid burst of flavours, with the chef’s welcome that immediately sets the tone for the restaurant’s philosophy: ingredients masterfully combined, compositions that enchant the palette. A Mushroom Cappuccino delivers earthy tones and feels perfectly paired with Truffle and Brioche Feuilletée.
Ingredients, the team tells us, are primordial here. There’s even a farm, in Corinth, which prepares the seasonal vegetables, herbs and edible flowers used in the restaurant. These ingredients, as well as a tight network of local producers, are at the heart of the story of Makris. The Bouquet from the Farm, closely followed by the highly recommended Kharmani Persian Beluga Caviar, speaks volumes about Dimas’ reverence for quality produce. Vegetables are treated not as sides but as leading stages of the journey and the vegan menu testifies to this. The technique and excellence are all there, as you’d expect of a Michelin-starred restaurant, but the confidence in allowing flavour to stand on its own brings the whole experience to life in surprising and touching ways.
Dimas’ relationship with the Mediterranean embodies an instinctive rather than conceptual approach. The flavours explored with the fish in the menu are exceptional, such as the sweetness of Red Hellenic Shrimp balanced by carrot and the saline depth of caviar. The langoustine, served at two temperatures, becomes a study in contrast: warm and yielding, then cool and precise: an outstanding dish – perhaps our highlight – which is as beautiful visually as it is delicious.
At this stage, we must mention the sourdough bread, which is served alongside a menu of olive oils from various regions in Greece, from Crete and Corfu to Messinia. A visit to Makris is worth it just for this experience; this is, as the establishment describes it, a dip into nature’s liquid gold. These are tastes your buds will remember for a long time.
Further on in the menu, local hake is paired with zucchini, alongside a rockfish sauce and smoked mussels. It’s a foray into the more traditional flavours associated with Greek cuisine yet replaces nostalgia with shared memories. There is undeniable charm and warmth to Dimas’ cuisine. When it comes to the meat course, it’s clear that Makris’ commitment to local sourcing is a question of moral principles, not just aesthetics. The organic Hellenic Pork Iberico is served with white asparagus, chanterelles and seasonal vegetables, for an intensely gourmet end to the savoury part of the menu. This dish anchors the meal in the rhythms of the land, bridging the gap between sea and countryside.
Dessert at Makris is everything you’d hope to bring this poetic journey to a close: in short, nothing short of spectacular. The Hazelnut Concert – layered with chocolate, caramel and lavender ice cream – is alive with aroma. It plays with recollections of childhood sweets without falling into overly saccharine tones and works memories like a playful ingredient. The texture and temperature are perfect.
The restaurant’s interior is a soft space which exudes charm and mirrors the food. Nothing feels out of place to the point of intruding on the experience; the design is minimal while still providing a comforting, almost homely feel. A special mention goes to the wine pairings – particularly the Hellenic selection, with a broad but modern carte of conventional and natural wines – which feels like an extension of the storytelling.
In close contact with the layers of the Greek capital, Makris Athens offers a reinvention. It’s a reinvention, however, that embodies every step of history and has brought those steps along to where the space is today. Much like the scenery of ancient Athens you can see from the restaurant, Makris offers a return to roots, a game of memories made vivid by compositions that vibrate with the power of ingredients. Petros Dimas does not ask diners to be impressed; he accompanies, guides, suggests and inspires just like a storyteller. In doing so, he offers something increasingly rare: a meal that lingers not just on the palate, but somewhere deeper. In a city with layers of history, Makris adds another; one told quietly, beautifully and entirely on its own terms.
Reversations for Makris Athens can be made here.
words. Patrick Clark
